Sunday, February 25, 2007

Cold-weather, cool fashions

Times Leader | 02/25/2007 | Cold-weather, cool fashions:

"Your mom can guess again. No way are you wearing some hideous hat or hood and standing at the bus stop where everyone can see you. You’d rather freeze.

Wearing cold-weather gear can seem uncool, but hats, scarves, mittens and gloves are staples in the wardrobes of many stylish people. Chicago fashion designer Palesa Nicolini says she always bundles up on cold days.

“I don’t go anywhere without a scarf. I wear a fur hat, leather gloves. It ends up being fashionable, but it’s very eclectic,” says Nicolini, an instructor at the School of the Art Institute of Chicago.

Kids also can look cool while staying warm. Nicolini says this year the “in” colors are navy blue, marigold yellow and merlot red.

Both boys and girls can wrap their scarves in several stylish ways. Nicolini prefers to loop her scarf loosely around her neck and continue wearing it after she’s removed her coat. Another way to wear your scarf is to wrap it around your neck and loop it in the front, she says.

Hats can be cool, too. For girls, Nicolini says fake fur hats are very of the moment, as are bright-colored stocking caps with big pompoms on top.

Boys also can wear the pompom hat or opt for a cool knit hat to stay warm. “Even adults like wearing these fun knit hats,” Nicolini says.

Even during relatively mild winter weather, it’s still cold out, and kids have to use some sense and dress appropriately when outside. Cold weather can cause frostbite, says emergency-room physician Elizabeth Powell.

Frostbite is a freezing of the body tissues. “You have fluid in your tissue. Just as an ice cube can freeze, your nose can freeze, your fingers can freeze and your ears can freeze,” says Powell, who works at Children’s Memorial Hospital in Chicago.

Frostbite can be avoided by bundling up or going inside when it’s extremely cold. Powell says because most Americans understand how to avoid frostbite, she’s only seen a few cases in her career.

So don’t use the cold weather or fear of frostbite as an excuse to stay inside. Powell says kids should bundle up and go out to play. “It’s very important kids get out and play; the snow is fun,” she says.

"

Winter weather makes hats a necessity, but not a stylish one

Winter weather makes hats a necessity, but not a stylish one | Chicago Tribune:

"The end of another winter is approaching, which in my view offers many reasons for joy but one for regret. It is a reminder that despite the opportunity presented every year, I have yet to solve the perennial problem of the hat.

Anyone in an intemperate clime who has good sense knows better than to step outside on a January day without some sort of covering for the noggin. When the temperature is struggling to reach double digits, the snow is falling horizontally and ice coats every visible surface, going bareheaded is about as sensible as going barefoot.

I found out the hard way shortly after moving to Chicago one winter many years ago. Like other Baby Boomers, I grew up in the years after President John F. Kennedy made hats deeply unfashionable by refusing to wear one. The only ones I owned were caps advertising fishing tackle or farm machinery, suitable only on a boat or a softball diamond. I thought I needed a real hat like I needed a pocket watch and a monocle.

One frigid February afternoon, though, I set out across the Michigan Avenue bridge on an errand. Halfway over, as the wind drilled icicles into my skull, I had an epiphany: JFK would have worn a hat if it was the difference between life and death. Having barely avoided a fatal bout of brain freeze, I resolved to buy a hat and wear it.

I did, and it warded off hypothermia until the arrival of spring. But I wasn't happy about it, for the simple reason that in our time, it is impossible to wear a hat without looking like a dork.

This is one of those problems that rouse my conservative instincts. In the old days, when we paid heed to centuries of accumulated wisdom, Americans understood the value of hats. But in the liberated atmosphere of the '60s, people jettisoned many traditional customs simply because they were traditional customs. Hats were seen as a suffocating imposition on our freedom to uncover our heads.

Today, we find ourselves with a far more oppressive constraint--the chilly grip of fashion, which gives scant weight to considerations such as comfort and health. In a world in which hardly anyone wears hats except for reasons of necessity, they radiate homely, unhip practicality. Even Brad Pitt, who recently did a photo shoot wearing various hats, couldn't make them work. So someone living in a wintry clime can look stupid and be warm, or look good and suffer.

If you're a grown man who wants to protect his skull from the elements, your choices are like the dining options at a maximum security prison: all so bad that you may prefer to do without.

There is the old reliable knit stocking cap. It looked good on you when you were 10 years old, and it still looks good--on 10-year-olds. If you wear it as an adult, people will assume you just got back from a lengthy ice-fishing trip in northern Minnesota. There is the baseball cap. Nothing can beat it for conveying maturity and professionalism except maybe flip-flops and a Hawaiian shirt.

There is the fur hat once favored by members of the Soviet Politburo as they reviewed parades of missiles in Red Square. It once had a certain cachet, suggesting you were a formidable person with the means to invade Hungary if provoked. But when the Berlin Wall fell, this headgear became as obsolete as Lenin's corpse.

There is the beret. It's fine if you're French, or if you're taking a painting class at the Art Institute of Chicago. Otherwise, you might as well wear a sign around your neck with the words, "Beware of pretentious twit." Equally lame are cowboy hats, which are permissible only for someone riding a horse, watching a rodeo or going to a Halloween party.

There is the driving cap, which brings to mind a New York City cabbie, circa 1955--something even New York City cabbies don't want to emulate. A fedora looks great on Humphrey Bogart in the old movies, but these days, it's the fashion equivalent of your father's Oldsmobile or maybe Packard. If you're a rabbi, you can get away with it. Otherwise, not.

I've tried most of these options only to feel deep embarrassment in every one. So from now on, I'm wearing a ski mask. Sure, I'll look ridiculous, but no one will know it's me.
"


Wednesday, February 21, 2007

Looking stunning for the races Never Came so Easy!

Cybernoon.com:

"Strap your most fashionable hat on and take everyone’s attention away from the horses this Sunday!

The Poonawala Multi-Million is probably the most glamorous race day of the season after the Derby. With fashion designer Delna Poonawala in the family, the Poonawalas are pulling out all the stops to turn the event into an Indian Ascot.
“Being the year of the butterfly in fashion, I have added this element to my collection of hats,” said Delna Poonawala. “I hope it encourages everyone to dress well.”
A fashion show where top models will walk the ramp and show off Delna’s hats will give a taste of what’s in and what’s out. Delna Poonawala, Narendra Kumar, Kadambari and other eminent personalities will judge the crowd for the Best Turned-Out Lady, Best Turned-Out Gentleman and the Best Hat. Yana Gupta will join the judges in giving out the prizes.
Meanwhile, WEX brings you Delna Poonawala’s tips on adding that sizzle to your Multi-Million outfit this Sunday.
Suits are a must for men, though they can’t go wrong even on women
For the more flirty and relaxed woman, dresses of any kind – wrap dresses, sun dresses –
Corsets teamed with pencil skirts and trousers are dressy yet retain that formal touch
A touch of bling is acceptable with a diamante brooch or a horseshoe belt
Metallic colours like gold and bronze are trendy

Hats are a must!
The right personality is required to be able to carry off a big hat, but there is always one to suit every face shape
Hair-bands and combs with feathers, butterflies and a dash of bling have also become popular and are almost always best on petite frames.
Colour themes for hats are monotones – white, beige, grey and black – the only colours thrown in are red and pink.
A hat need not match your outfit: a white and black dress can be off-set with a pink hat.
Hats can be elegant and classic; hats can be fun to the point of bizarre and dramatic in size and colour – to each her own!
The main objective of this event is to live it up on the race course Ascot-style and have fun! So don’t take fashion too seriously, ladies, and just whip up a storm on Sunday with your headgear and – oh yes! Don’t forget to add that butterfly to your outfit!
"


Monday, February 19, 2007

Hats off to Indianapolis

Hats off to Indianapolis - gainesvilletimes.com:

"As retailers opened their doors in the Indianapolis area, 20,000 caps produced overnight in Gainesville were there to meet them.

For the past 10 years, Chattahoochee Marketing Group of Gainesville has been one of the vendors producing the 'locker room' cap identical to those worn by the Super Bowl champions.

Rick Boyd, president of the firm, said the caps, which are identical to those seen immediately after the game, were being made in Gainesville by 10 p.m., just eight minutes after the Indianapolis Colts defeated the Chicago Bears 29-17 in Super Bowl XLI.

The official cap, which is sold by Reebok, carries an embroidered emblem that is heat-sealed to the front. Chattahoochee was one of four firms around the country producing the caps.

Boyd's company was shipped two emblems, one for Chicago and the other for Indianapolis. The Chicago emblems were returned to Reebok, Boyd said.

"We produced hats all Sunday night and early Monday morning," Boyd said. "Then, a courier picks them up and takes them to the airport, and they were in the Indiana market by the time the stores opened."

Boyd and a crew of 19 watched the game at his plant on Georgia Avenue in Gainesville.

Moments later, production started and continued until 4 a.m.

This is not new territory for Boyd, who has produced championship hats for other Super Bowls, as well as NBA championships, World Series and the Stanley Cup.

Just two weeks ago, his crews worked into the night producing caps for the NFL's conference championships.

"Last year, one of the store chains chartered a plane and waited at the Gwinnett airport until we were done," he said. "It's pretty competitive as to who can have the hats in their store and sell them out."

The workers were able to complete 3,000 caps per hour.

"The design was favorable to our production," he said. "We've had some in the past where it was slow."

Chattahoochee Marketing Group was founded in 1992 in Boyd's hometown of Charleston, S.C. A year later, he moved the company, which was then known as Stitch Tech, to Gainesville.

In 1997, Boyd took a group of college students to the NBA finals in Chicago to be the on-site producer for hats.

"We actually stayed in Chicago a week doing hats," he said. "When we finished in Chicago, we went over to Detroit and did the Stanley Cup. We were gone for about 10 days."

Among his production feats was the 1999 NFC championship hats for the Atlanta Falcons.

"Sometimes, I see people wearing those hats at a game and I think, 'We probably made that hat,'" he said.

Boyd, 49, said the late-night hours are not as fun as they used to be.

"The problem is I'm 10 years older than when I started this, and staying up all night is not as appealing," he said. "


Hats off to Stormy Kromer - American Profile

Hats off to Stormy Kromer - American Profile:

"by Steve Lange

In 2001, Bob Jacquart was drinking his morning coffee at a restaurant in Ironwood, Mich. (pop. 6,293), when he heard that the Kromer Cap Co., after more than a century, had stopped producing its classic winter hat.

Upon hearing the news, some restaurant patrons decided to buy the last of the remaining hats at nearby stores. Jacquart, however, decided to buy the company.

“I knew I had to do something to keep that hat alive,” says Jacquart, 54, who owns a sewing company in his hometown of Ironwood. “The Stormy Kromer cap is part of our history.

“I called the company that day,” he says. “I bought what would become Stormy Kromer Mercantile two months later.”

The iconic, short-brimmed, ear-flapped hat long has been standard headwear in northern Wisconsin and Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, where January temperatures average in the teens and annual snowfall nears 200 inches.

In 1903, Wisconsin locomotive engineer George “Stormy” Kromer, a former semi-pro baseball player, asked his wife, Ida, to modify one of his baseball hats for protection against the bitter winds on his wintertime railroad runs. Ida created an all-wool cap with a short brim and an insulated flap that could be pulled down over the ears. The cap was a hit with Kromer’s co-workers, and it gained popularity as railroad crews traveled across the Midwest. The Kromers made and sold the hats out of their home until 1919, when they opened a cap manufacturing plant in Milwaukee.

Richard Grossman bought the company in 1965, and reluctantly discontinued production of the winter cap in 2001 to concentrate on more profitable products. “We were so glad to have someone like Bob to keep the Stormy Kromer going,” Grossman says. “He understood how important it was.”

Today, a dozen of Jacquart’s employees create each Kromer from the original 13-piece pattern designed by George and Ida more than a century ago. The caps, which cost from $27 to $39, come in a dozen colors and sizes ranging from infant to a custom-made 16-and-1/4-inch hat for Wildcat Willy, the mascot for nearby Northern Michigan University.

Stormy Kromer Mercantile, which produced 6,000 hats in 2002, manufactured 75,000 hats—and added jobs—last year.

“It means a lot to me to make a difference in this community,” Jacquart says. “My great-grandfather was a wheelwright here. Both of my grandfathers were grocers here. My dad and my uncles ran businesses here.”

Though he knew the hat’s history, Jacquart didn’t realize how much the Kromer cap meant to people until he began hearing their sentimental stories.

“I was 7 when my dad bought me my first Kromer, and I remember it like it was yesterday,” says Ted Erspamer, now 75. “It’s the perfect hat. In the 1950s, we wore them as part of our uniform on the police department. We wore our badges right on the front of our Kromers.”

Ironwood teacher Dave Kangas wore his old red Kromer on every fishing trip for as long as anyone could remember. So when Kangas died in 1983, his friends and family traveled by boat to the middle of Lake Superior, placed a rock inside the hat and dropped it overboard near his favorite island.

“David loved wearing his Kromers,” says his widow, Nancy Kangas. “He wore his good black Kromer to school and church and special events, and he wore his red one in the outdoors. The tribute was very moving for me—tears still come when I tell people about it.”

Jacquart has his own fond Kromer story. “We only have two existing photographs of my late grandfather, Lopez,” Jacquart says, “and in both of them he’s wearing a Stormy Kromer. So I know he’d be glad we’re keeping this tradition alive.”

Visit www.stormykromer.com or call (888) 455-2253 for more information."


Saturday, February 17, 2007

Hat designer to showcase work

Community Press - Hat designer to showcase work:

"'Hats by Penny,' couture-hat designer Penny Rieck will be premiering her hats in Cincinnati at the Laurel House Shops in Madeira, during a two-day event, 'Hats Are Happening' on Tuesday, March 6 and Wednesday, March 7.

The Laurel House historically holds a two-day spring event that benefits Kindervelt.

The 'Hats Are Happening' event evolved into also helping the Taft Art Museum.

Rieck, who is from Washington, D.C., will be donating a one-of-a-kind hat to The Taft Art Museum.

The Taft will be displaying the hat to promote their third annual Mad Hatter Tea Party on Sunday, April 29.

The couture hat will be silent-auctioned at the Taft's "Day in the Garden" event.

Rieck makes all hats by hand. Each hat is exclusive, hand-blocked, hand-stitched and hand-adorned.

A collection of her couture hats will be available for purchase at the Laurel House during the two-day event. Commissioned hats are also available and will be ready in time for the Kentucky Derby.

A percentage of the sales from the event will be going to Kindervelt. Kindervelt is a volunteer auxiliary of Cincinnati Children's Hospital Medical Center."


Once The Rage, Hats Make Little Headway In Today's Fashions

The Newtown Bee:

"At the peak of the hatting industry in the early-to-mid-1800s, Newtown was home to seven hat factories, four of which were located in what is now the Historic Hattertown District. These hatters turned out 30,400 hats in 1845 alone, according to town historian Dan Cruson in his book, A Mosaic of Newtown History. Other hat makers were scattered throughout the town as well, and a hatbox factory complimented the Newtown industry in the mid-1800s.

Newtown's neighboring city, Danbury, was nicknamed "Hat City" at this time, due to its numerous hat factories. A prolific producer of headwear, Danbury once produced 25 percent of the nation's hats.

Everyone wore hats. From bonnets to Stetsons, heads were covered from January to December. Elaborate Victorian hats for women flaunted ostrich feathers and velvet flowers. Broad-brimmed hats made-to-order were de rigueur for social events, and an outfit was not finished until the proper cap topped it off.

Pillbox hats, veil hats, or glittery caps fit snugly to the head matched the style of the day and a well-dressed woman would not set foot in public without one. No longer a utilitarian piece of the costume, men who marched off to office jobs in the 1940s and 50s donned felt fedoras as part of the new, city look. Hats were not just practical protection from the weather. They were a sought-after accessory, right through the 1940s.

Wearing a head covering in winter can reduce the amount of body heat lost by 50 percent, according to information from the Centers for Disease Control. In summer, hats protect the scalp from harmful sunrays and shield the eyes from too bright light that can irritate the eye. So where are the hats now? Even as winter's chill settles in, other than children at play or sports enthusiasts, heads are largely uncovered in 2007.

"I would love to sell more hats. We see a lot of cute hats and would like to order them, but it's not worth it," said Joan Zaccaro, co-owner, along with Karen Bauer, of Style on South Main Street in Newtown. "They don't move. With people concerned about the sun, I thought floppy, broad-brimmed hats would sell, but they don't," she said.

Ms Zaccaro suspects it is the casual lifestyle of this area that does not lend itself to elegant headwear.

"In urban areas, where people dress up more and in the South, then you see more hats and head scarves," she observed. Winter caps and ski bands sell at the small shop, she said, and a line of designer baseball caps was somewhat popular.

"Dressy hats are a tough call, though," said Ms Zaccaro. "I think you have to have a strong sense of fashion."

And a strong sense of fashion, indeed, is what Janet Falkenthal, owner of The Fashion Exchange just down the road from Style, has nurtured. Ms Falkenthal's love affair with hats began when she was just 16 years old.

"I was born and raised in England, and when we moved to Toronto when I was a teenager, my aunt there was into wearing hats. She would take me to the milliner and let me pick out a hat. I have always loved hats," she said.

Her customers barely recognize her without a hat, said Ms Falkenthal, and it is no wonder. Her personal collection of hats numbers more than 120, and most of them are quite unmistakable. Her hats are not made up of logo-touting baseball caps and artificial straw sunhats, but a fine collection of vintage and handmade hats that compliment her outfits. Many of the hats that are stored in the dozens of hatboxes at her home were gifts, but she does buy new hats, as well.

"It is difficult to find a decorative hat," said Ms Falkenthal. "There are few milliners left who still make hats. Suzanne Daché is one New York/Paris milliner who does custom work." Other favorite milliners include Californians Langston Bourguin and Lois Green. "They make beautiful hats. Most hats in a department store are machine made. The felt is hard and not the quality you find in a handmade hat or even in the older hats."

When Ms Falkenthal orders hats for herself, she also orders for her store, which she believes is one of very few in the area that carries dress hats.

"I actually sell an amazing number of hats. But the funny thing is, I never see anybody wearing them," she said. "Today's way of life and clothing don't accommodate wearing hats, so people don't wear them on a daily basis." What hats people do buy from her, are usually for special occasions, such as weddings, religious ceremonies, or gala events.

Hats adorn the shelves and peek out from every corner in The Fashion Exchange. They are tempting bits of fabric, bows and flowers that women try on, but the timid customer leaves the pretty hat behind when the purchase is complete, said Ms Falkenthal.

Knowing how to wear a hat properly might encourage more women to discard the notion that they are "not hat people," said Ms Falkenthal.

"Most women put a hat on the back of their head and you do end up looking rather Polly Annish like that. Tilt the hat a little, bring it a little forward. That can make a difference," suggested the hat aficionado. People perceive a woman in a hat differently, said Ms Falkenthal. "I get great service when I wear a hat. Men love women in hats. I love the way it ends an outfit. It's the last accessory you put on and it finishes the outfit."

Hats For Men

For modern day men, a hat functions primarily as a source of warmth, to keep a bald pate free of sunburn, or in the case of local bluegrass folk musician Roger Sprung, as a trademark. Mr Sprung has sported a John Dillinger-like homburg fedora since the mid-50s.

"My father liked a homburg," explained Mr Sprung, "and it's a good-looking hat. A lot of people who play my kind of music wear those hats."

Students who ride Joe Borst's bus number 34 to school have probably seen a few of his baseball caps, but the Newtown resident's hat collection is actually a bit more extensive.

"I have 20 baseball caps, one straw skimmer that I wear every year in the Labor Day Parade, and a small-brimmed wool cap from England. My head was feeling a little chilly when we were over there, so I picked up the wool cap," said Mr Borst, who also owns a broad-brim Panama hat for hot summer days and a camping hat made of denim with a longer brim on one side to protect him from the sun.

Several of his caps serve as testaments to who he is and where he has been. Logos from The Newtown High School Band, The Pasadena Rose Bowl, New York Mets, General Electric, the space telescope, The 8th Air Force WWII Veterans, The 8th Air Force Museum, the US Air Force Retired Veterans, and the World Ware II Memorial in Washington, D.C., are all proudly displayed on baseball caps that make up his collection.

His dressiest hat is a Luden bought in Europe years ago, said Mr Borst. "Instead of buying more caps, I just bought souvenir pins to put on it from all over Europe."

Hat Head

There are reasons that people avoid hats, and one of them is "hat head." This phenomenon, when perfectly coiffed hair ends up perfectly flat and full of static, is a problem for women, Ms Falkenthal admits. Her advice? "Keep the hat on. That's perfectly acceptable for women."

But for men, as through the years, there are rules of etiquette to follow when a hat is part of the wardrobe. Teri LaRocque teaches etiquette classes to young people through Newtown Parks and Recreation, and hat etiquette is something she has noticed has fallen by the roadside.

"I see young people wearing baseball caps in restaurants. Not fancy places, but places like [T.G.I.] Friday's and such. I know it is just a fashion, but I think overall our manners are a little lax," said Ms LaRocque.

As a teacher, Ms LaRocque requires her students, boys and girls, to remove any head gear when they are indoors. It is a rule she feels should extend to the population in general.

"Boys should remove their hats at a table, at prayer, indoors, at formal events, and in restaurants," advised Ms LaRocque. Hats should never remain on the head during the playing of the national anthem or the Pledge of Allegiance, either, said this manners expert. While hat etiquette rules are generally aimed at the male population, Ms LaRocque sees no reason that they should not apply to women, as well.

"The one exception might be when a hat is part of an outfit, like at a wedding or formal affair," said Ms LaRocque.

So if hats are on, it looks like it is "hats off" to pay respect.

Hats may never regain the position they once held in fashion, but for those who wish to make a statement, think beyond the ubiquitous baseball cap. Dress hats are still out there to top off a good look.

"


Wednesday, February 14, 2007

New Era takes lid off women's collection

New Era takes lid off women's collection - Business First of Buffalo::

"The EK by New Era brand will feature Gatsby, Newsboy and Military styles that honor New Era's founder, Ehrhardt Koch, and the company's roots in fashion caps during its founding years.

'We created the New Era Women's line because we believe women deserve caps that are fit and styled just for them,' said Gina Valenti, lead designer for the New Era Women's Division. 'And in a society of mass production headwear, collections like our new Women's EK line give women the opportunity to be unique and express themselves. We all know that trends come and go, so creating updated versions of timeless pieces that we see on the runways each year is key to keeping our brand fresh.'

New Era produces more than 30 million caps per year and is the exclusive provider of on-field caps for Major League Baseball as well as other professional, amateur and collegiate sports teams and leagues."


World-Class Milliners Showcase Their Latest Collections at BurJuman

albawaba.com middle east news information::World-Class Milliners Showcase Their Latest Collections at BurJuman:

"As the city gears up for another Dubai World Cup, BurJuman is hosting a 10-day millinery exhibition, the biggest of its kind in the region, prior to the world’s richest horserace.

A stunning collection of exquisite couture hats, headpieces and accessories will be on display at the mall, from 20-30 March 2007, giving race-goers the opportunity to find the perfect accessory to match their race day outfit.

Six milliners and a world-class accessories designer will be exhibiting at BurJuman during mall working hours, offering fashion headwear advice, displaying their latest collections for sale and also creating custom-made headpieces, fascinators and other headwear accessories for race-goers using a variety of materials.

Serena Lindeman, Marilena Romeo, Louise MacDonald, Sabine Pedder, Julie Mitcheson, and Karen Hamilton are all scheduled to showcase their fabulous headwear along with Louise Harrison, a famous accessories designer, and her exquisite scarves.

“These milliners are famous in the world of fashion for their chic, stylish and trendy designs and for their high quality work and we are delighted to be playing host to them prior to the Dubai World Cup. These women can create a unique and fashionable look to suit every taste, making sure that those who visit BurJuman’s Millinery Exhibition are guaranteed to step out in style on race day,” said Sabina Khandwani, head of PR and marketing, BurJuman.

Renowned Australian milliner Serena Lindeman, who specializes in making fine millinery suitable for race wear, weddings and other formal occasions, is a key participant in this year’s exhibition. Serena, the recipient of the Myer ‘Fashions on the Field 2006’ Millinery Award at the Melbourne Cup last year, uses the finest materials available to design a wide range of head wear that suit a variety of tastes, making her a firm favourite with a number of celebrity race-goers.

A milliner for 17 years, Louise McDonald began her career in England, making hats for film and television productions. Working in one of London’s best costume houses she has produced headwear for world-famous actors including Minnie Driver, Tom Cruise, Jerry Hall, William Hurt, Helena Bonham Carter and Vanessa Redgrave to name a few.

Karen Hamilton specializes in headwear for ladies for both the Melbourne Racing Carnival and the Dubai World Cup. From her workshop in Jumeirah, she has also recently teamed up with a locally-based UK fashion designer and produces bridal headpieces for numerous society weddings in Dubai.

British designer Louise Harrison, who’s stockists include Harrods, Liberty, Fenwick of Bond Street and various other exclusive retailers throughout the United Kingdom, will also be displaying her ‘Couture Collection’ of luxury hand-made scarves at the mall during this time.

Using silk, chiffon and velour in a wide range of colours, textures and fabrics, Harrison employs a unique blend of techniques such as embroidery, beading and appliqué to create unique one-of-a-kind pieces for stylish women of all ages to wear on special occasions such as the Dubai World Cup.

Fondly described as the “Mad Hatter” of Australia, Marilena Romeo has experienced an unprecedented level of success since her inauguration into the hat world, bagging a top prize at the Milliner Design Awards in 1992 after only one year of production. Leaving a successful career in Public Relations behind, Romeo has since pursued her true vocation and now utilises the traditional skills of hat design to create a glamorous and theatrically-inspired range. Her specialties include racewear, evening and bridal ware.

“The Dubai World Cup is undoubtedly the most glamorous event on the city’s sports and social calendar and BurJuman is committed to adding further sparkle to this occasion by providing shoppers with a one-of-a-kind opportunity to enhance their World Cup outfit in the run up to race day,” added Khandwani.

BurJuman is also sponsoring Fillies and Fashion on March 8 2007. One of the main fashion events of the Dubai World Cup, the mall will use this occasion as a platform to showcase the latest collections from world-renowned designers to a captivated and fashionable audience.

On March 31, the 2007 BurJuman Style Stakes will give race-goers a chance to compete and win fabulous prizes, in a number of categories including Best Dressed Lady, Runner Up and Best Dressed Couple and the Milliner's Award for the Best Hat.

The exhibition, taking place from 20th March – 30th March 2007, will be located at the mall observatory in BurJuman and is open daily from 10 am to 10 pm.

"

Monday, February 12, 2007

Topping It All Off

WWD.com Article:

"The New York shows always come through with great American sportswear, and this season was no exception. But in a bit of a surprise, there was a major revival of millinery.

Marc Jacobs, 3.1 Phillip Lim and Temperley all showed formal toppings, from wide-brimmed styles to top hats and fedoras. Proenza Schouler A Erin Fetherston did versions with crystals and cloches with other monochromatic embellishments. DKNY and Ralph Lauren brought back the beret in an urban way, and Rodarte and Michael Kors had the frigid winter temperatures in mind in showing their big knit and mink toppers, respectively.

Hats have long been a hard sell in the U.S., but Ed Burstell, Bergdorf Goodman's senior vice president and general merchandise manager of beauty, jewelry and accessories, said, 'I think that after several seasons, we are due for a hat revival. A big part of the new refinement in fashion is finishing an outfit, i.e., a hat or glove. Hats and caps will also be easier to wear this coming season, as the hair styles everywhere have all been pulled up and back, away from the face.'"


Muslim women 'don't have to wear veils'

Gulf Daily News:

"ROME: Islam does not require women to wear veils, Queen Rania of Jordan said yesterday. In an interview, she also called on moderates to 'make their voices be heard'.

'Islam neither requires one to be practising, nor to dress in one way or another,' the stylish 36-year-old queen told the Italian Corriere della Sera newspaper during a visit to Rome.

'So imposing the veil on a woman is contrary to the principles of Islam,' said Queen Rania, who is in Rome for the launch of a Group of Seven programme to develop vaccines against diseases endemic in poor countries.

'Unfortunately, after all the suspicion weighing on Islam, many people have begun to consider the veil as a political problem, but this is not the case. Wearing the veil is a free personal choice.'

Many in the Arab world give in to the anger because they are accused of violence. 'But instead we should get up, explain who we are and what we believe in,' she said.

'What is important is not to live in fear. The most dangerous (thing to do) is to give up and lose hope. The main enemy is not terrorism or extremism, but ignorance.'
"

Sunday, February 11, 2007

Fur flies at fashion week

Fur flies at fashion week | Metro.co.uk:

"Real fur was one of the hottest trends at New York fashion week, leaving animal rights activists PETA furious.

The Michael Kors show sparked the trend for Russian-style fur hats, a look that was immediately picked up in New York's sub-zero temperatures by celebrities including Melania Trump.

Fashion insiders such as the Telegraph's Hilary Alexander, also praised the look, saying: 'I have very fine hair, so when I wear one, I feel like I've got really big hair.'

But, big hair comes at a cost says PETA.

'[The hats] are so obnoxious-looking, they only appeal to the most desperate attention-starved fashion victims,' said PETA representative Michael McGraw. 'For most people, they remain about as popular as a cold sore.'

He also extended his criticism to the many designers, including Badgley Mischka, Carlos Miele, Oscar de la Renta and Bill Blass, who all used real fur in their collections and the swarms of fashionistas, including Vogue editrix Anna Wintour, who braved the cold in an array of animal skins

'It's an ugly look and an ugly statement that every person who wears them is making, that they have zero regard for the millions of animals.'
"

Where Some See Fashion, Others See Politics

Where Some See Fashion, Others See Politics - New York Times:

"THREE months ago, Jay Hukahori, a 24-year-old fashion design student at Parsons, went to a party at Guesthouse, a club in Chelsea, in an outfit topped off by a kaffiyeh, a scarf with a black and white chain-link pattern and knotted tassels that is typically worn in Arab countries.

“I knew that with the doormen, it’d be easily identifiable as a hip accessory,” Ms. Hukahori said.

Once the trademark headwear of Yasir Arafat, and long associated with his Palestinian countrymen, the kaffiyeh has lately shown up on the shelves of adventurous boutiques in the United States and even mainstream retailers like Urban Outfitters.

Its newest wearers, who wrap it around the neck like a scarf, say they are less Fatah sympathizers than fashion party crashers. The kaffiyeh appears to be the dubious successor to last year’s Che Guevara T-shirts, a symbol denuded of any potent political associations by pop culture.

But not everyone finds it so simple a fashion statement. A blogger named Mobius, posting Jan. 16 on Jewschool, a Jewish blog that targets a young audience, blasted Urban Outfitters for selling kaffiyehs. Taking issue with the retailer’s decision to label the item an “anti-war woven scarf,” Mobius posted pictures of terrorists adorned in kaffiyehs.

The same day Urban Outfitters, which had offered the scarves in several color combinations for $20, pulled them from stores. Its Web site posted this explanation: “Due to the sensitive nature of this item, we will no longer offer it for sale. We apologize if we offended anyone, this was by no means our intention.” A spokeswoman for the store, which has 95 branches nationwide, declined to comment further.

Hanyi Lee, a graphic designer in New York, who had bought a kaffiyeh at Urban Outfitters and now owns three, didn’t intend anything provocative when she wore hers. “I didn’t think it was anything that heavy,” Ms. Lee said, noting that she takes fashion cues from a variety of cultures.

Ms. Hukahori thought it strange that Urban Outfitters would call the kaffiyeh (pronounced kuh-FEE-yeh) an antiwar scarf.

“That’s so cheap of Urban, a PR gambit,” she said. “But I think it’s great that this controversy will get kids to start learning about it.”

Clearly, many wearers have not considered the kaffiyeh’s political import. “I’m not too up to speed in what’s going on in the Middle East,” said Liz Chernett, a strategic consultant in branding and a youth trends expert who bought a kaffiyeh from a vendor on St. Mark’s Place three months ago. “It’s an aesthetic thing.”

Perhaps what is most telling about the mainstreaming of the kaffiyeh is what it says about the country’s political mood. The scarf’s popularity seems to have less to do with solidarity with Arabs than it has to do with the war in Iraq. Marketing it as an antiwar statement, as Urban Outfitters attempted, would probably have been even more controversial a few years ago, when the country was more divided about Iraq, said Ted Swedenburg, a professor of anthropology at the University of Arkansas, who blogs about pop culture, music and the Middle East.

In Britain, where voters are even more united against the war than Americans, the kaffiyeh’s fashionability has been taken a step farther. TopShop, the high-street juggernaut, is selling kaffiyehs stamped with skull prints, conflating two hot looks of the recent past.

Dr. Swedenburg said he thinks that the exotic element of the scarf becomes more important, and the political aspect less so, as it becomes mainstream. “It’s chic because it’s different,” he said. “It’s Eastern.”

According to Professor Swedenburg and others who have studied the history of the kaffiyeh, it was originally the headwear of Palestinian peasants, worn around the head and fastened in place by a band called an agal. In the insurrection against the British occupation from 1936 to 1939, the kaffiyeh became a symbol of Palestinian nationalism as well as an expression of class struggle. The insurgents forced upper-class Palestinians, who typically wore the Ottoman fez, to don the kaffiyeh to show sympathy with the fighters. The kaffiyeh rose in prominence again in the 1960s when the Palestinian resistance movement started and Arafat famously adopted it. “Above all, it’s important to remember a kaffiyeh is something to wear like a hat, to keep out the cold, keep out the sun,” said Rochelle Davis, an assistant professor of culture and society at Georgetown University’s Center for Contemporary Arab Studies.

But if an older generation of Arabs still wears it as utilitarian headwear, the younger generation in the Middle East may wear it expressly to show support of the Palestinian cause, and it is also used by militants to disguise their faces. The black and white kaffiyeh is often associated with Fatah; the red and white with Hamas.

Many in the Jewish community, in particular, object to people wearing the scarf as a fashion statement. “Because there are people who wear the kaffiyeh as a sign of solidarity with Palestinians, some people view it as an endorsement of terrorism,” said Mik Moore, chairman of the board of directors for the Jewish Student Press Service, an independent nonprofit organization.

Dr. Swedenburg doesn’t think it should be viewed this way. “I think to associate it directly with terrorism is to tar all Palestinians with the brush of terrorism,” he said. “That’s a mischaracterization.”

Dr. Davis shares this opinion. “I think it diminishes its meaning and its value to just say ‘it’s been used by terrorists,’ ” he said. “I think it has a much richer history and a much richer meaning system than that.”

For those with a long memory, the current kaffiyeh craze may seem familiar. The scarves became a fashion statement in the United States at the start of the first intifada in 1987. In 1988, CBS News and Time magazine chronicled the trend. In a 1992 Michigan Quarterly Review article about the kaffiyeh’s modern history, Dr. Swedenburg wrote about how a “sign of Palestinian struggle suddenly appeared in the ensembles of ‘downtown’ U.S.A., together with black turtlenecks, ripped Levi’s, high-top sneakers and eight-zippered black leather jackets.”

In its 2007 revival, the kaffiyeh has similar sidekicks. “It’s hipster 101: I need my skinny jeans, some sort of scarf and a beat up T-shirt,” Ms. Hukahori said. “O.K., I’m a hipster now.”

Whether the scarf is seen as a political statement is usually in the eye of the beholder. “I think the meaning is given to it as much by the viewer as the wearer,” Dr. Davis said. “I see it and immediately think, ‘Is that person wearing it for a reason or just as a fashion accessory?’ ”

Ms. Chernett has not encountered any reactions to her kaffiyeh in New York but she has in cities like Philadelphia.

“I’ve gotten a lot of comments about it, like, ‘Doesn’t that support terrorists?’ ” she said. “ ‘Aren’t you Jewish?’ ” (Ms. Chernett said she is half-Jewish.)

Ms. Hukahori doesn’t have to answer any such questions; she hasn’t worn her kaffiyeh in public in months. It would never make her stand out with a club doorman today, she feels. The kaffiyeh, she said, is “dead.”

"


Top it off

TorontoSun.com - Lifestyle - Top it off:

"It's not too late to top up your winter hat collection.

'This is a great time to invest in warm and classic, felt and velvet hats, as they're on sale now,' says Helene Hemel, general merchandise manager and buyer for La Cache.

'And with spring just around the corner, it's also a good time to look ahead to what's on the way for warmer weather,' says Hemel.

WINTER STYLE

Winter hats with lots of texture make strong style statements. Small to medium brimmed styles made of mock Persian lamb, boucle, and tweed can help to give winter coats and jackets a new look.

Winter hat colours include wine, navy, red, purple, olive green, brown and mustard, along with black.

Popular accents include metal bits and buckles, as well as flat and gathered velvet trim. Cloches and berets are current, along with variations on newsboy and golf caps.

"We call our variation on the golf cap the driver cap. One of my designs, the Mao Now cap, is a crossover between a cloche and a military-inspired cap," says Liz Cohoe, designer for the Nelson, B.C.-based company Lillie & Cohoe.

"Today's hats are a wearable art form. I design my hats to invite interaction with the wearer. Put a hat on. Shift it around on your head and observe what features you notice most. When you find your hat, it becomes a form of self-expression," says Cohoe.

If you're looking for a hat to help you through the upcoming shift of season, some materials work better than others.

"Tweed and fleece are good transitional fabrics that offer protection from spring showers," says Hemel.

Cotton and crochet knit cloches, caps and berets, are among the many styles that will materialize in the new spring collections.

Other spring hat styles include woven cotton, denim and linen variations on newsboy caps, boaters and Sou'westerns.

A SOFT SPRING

Spring and summer hats typically feature lots of bright colour, but this year there's a trend toward neutral tones. Black, charcoal grey and white are among neutrals that spring forward.

Fashion shades for the upcoming season include powder blue, pale pink, dusty rose, green, aqua, butter yellow, coral and red.

Solid colours are most prevalent, but whimsical polka dot, jungle inspired, and floral prints also dot the landscape.

Leather and grosgrain ribbon bands, top stitching, buckles and bits, flowers and bows are popular spring trimmings. "


Saturday, February 10, 2007

Best lid wins topless Sebring

Best lid wins topless Sebring - Autoblog:

"Do you design hats? You do? Then what the hell are you doing reading Autoblog? However you got here, it's your lucky day. Because perhaps for the first time in Autoblog history, we have a post on headwear design. All you dedicated readers stop your groaning, it's not totally off-topic. Chrysler's giving away not only a trip to the 133rd Kentucky Derby, but a new Sebring convertible as well. (See, we brought it back on topic.)

You have a month to design a Kentucky Derby-worthy hat inspired by (and utilizing parts of) Chrysler's 2008 Sebring soft top. Get your best sketch along with a 100-word essay to Chrysler by March 5 to qualify. Complete rules and other important notices, disclaimers and promotional verbiage are all in the official press release after the jump.

[Source: Chrysler]

And They're Off...Chrysler Brand Announces the "Sebring Hats Off to the Derby" National Design Competition

Chance to Win an all-new 2008 Chrysler Sebring Convertible and weekend trip including tickets to the 133rd Kentucky Derby

* Hats to be inspired by the elegant design and exhilarating performance of the all-new Chrysler Sebring Convertible
* Enter contest at www.ChryslerSebringHatsOfftotheDerby.com by March 5
* Public helps decide favorite designs

Auburn Hills, Mich. –

In honor of a long-standing tradition of the Kentucky Derby, a sophisticated horse racing event often known for its fan's fashionable hats, the Chrysler brand announces today a nationwide hat design competition inspired by the brand's all-new 2008 Chrysler Sebring Convertible launching in spring 2007.

"Chrysler Sebring Hats Off to the Derby" brings together the elegant design and exhilarating performance of the all-new Chrysler Sebring Convertible with the high fashion and style associated with the Kentucky Derby in a fun contest where the top three finalists win tickets to the derby to wear their winning designs. One grand prize winner will be named in Louisville, Ky., Kentucky Derby weekend and will receive an all-new 2008 Chrysler Sebring Convertible.

Aspiring fashion designers, horse racing enthusiasts, car aficionados and all those interested are invited to enter the contest by going to www.chryslersebringhatsofftothederby.com. Entrants must submit a sketch by March 5 of an original hat design that captures the essence of the Chrysler Sebring Convertible and the sophistication of the Kentucky Derby. The design must utilize some material from the Sebring Convertible's soft top and be accompanied by a 100-word essay on how the styling and features of the all-new Chrysler Sebring Convertible inspired the hat design.

"The Chrysler brand reinforces its leadership position as America's favorite convertible company with the all-new 2008 Chrysler Sebring Convertible, now with a retractable hard top and the only one to offer three convertible top options," said David Rooney, Director – Chrysler Marketing and Global Communications. "The convertible's elegant design is a showcase for those who are expressive, athletic and passionate – traits shared by derby fans – and make it the perfect vehicle to show off great hat designs that are synonymous with the Kentucky Derby, one of America's premiere events."
Entries will also be accepted by mail at:

Chrysler Sebring Hats Off to the Derby Contest
Department 4764
P.O. Box 6650
Stacy, MN 55078-6650

Mailed entries must be post marked no later than March 5, 2007 and received no later than March 9, 2007. Additional details are provided on the contest Web site.
Public Helps Pick Finalists

The public will vote on the top 15 hat design submissions to determine their favorite sketches. The 15 quarter-finalist designs will be posted on the contest Web site, www.chryslersebringhatsofftothederby.com, from March 20 - 26 for public voting.

The top five vote getters will be provided seed money and convertible top fabric to produce their hat. After viewing the completed hats, judges will select the top three finalists, who will receive a trip for two to the Kentucky Derby and a chance to win an all-new 2008 Chrysler Sebring Convertible. The grand prize winner will be decided by a panel of judges and announced in Louisville, Ky., Kentucky Derby weekend.
"

The new hoser hat

globeandmail.com: The new hoser hat:

"My one and only fur splurge occurred two years ago, at the Holt Renfrew spring sale in Montreal. I was clumping around the elegant department store in my schlubby parka and itchy tuque when I saw it: a leather trapper hat lined with sheared beaver. Despite my fur reservations, I tried it on. Looking in the hat bar mirror, I fell in lust. The hat was warm as a hearth, light as air and, best of all, didn't make me look like a grumpy winter camper. I had to have it.

Two winters and innumerable headgear compliments later, trapper hats are now the must-have topper for cold-weather fashion vics. Nothing is toasty warmer, and boys like them too. Nothing like a bit of fur around the face to bring out your inner Scandi Bond girl.

Classic woodsman trapper hats reportedly sold out at Toronto's flagship location of Holt Renfrew this week. And Jennifer Dares, trend director for the Bay, reports that the trapper has done 'very well and is definitely trending.'

And while Style.com recently instructed its readers to 'lose last season's Davy Crockett cap,' here in Canada we have more practical concerns on the brain, like keeping our earlobes from freezing off without looking like an extra on the set of The Thing. Hence, we predict: The trapper trend has legs.

Are trapper hats the quintessential Canadian headwear? Mariouche Gagne, designer and owner of Montreal's Harricana label, certainly thinks so. She has done a huge international run on her recycled fur chapeaux, made from a selection of repurposed pelts including raccoon, beaver, fox and mink.

"We called it the Robin Hood hat in English," she said in a phone interview from Paris, where she was dashing around in preparation for her fall ready-to-wear show. "And it's the coureur de bois hat in French. The Europeans over here call it the 'Canadian chapka' or the RCMP. That's why my hats do so well in Europe -- retailers feel they are getting something more real than if it was a Chinese or U.S. manufacturer."

In fact, Gagne's hats are selling well in France, Italy, German, Austria, Japan and even Dubai (home to the world's largest indoor ski hill).

"The trapper was a great iconic hat for us," says Barbara Atkin, fashion director for Holt Renfrew. "More than ever today we're looking at authentic cultural trends from northern climates. Fur is still tied to luxury and status, but it's also about our heritage. Don't forget, Holt's started as a hat store in Quebec."

HBC's Signature hat might be the most iconic trapper on the market today, if only because it's made by the original Canuck mass market fur trader -- the company that literally clothed the original coureurs de bois. Available in ivory and red, the hat is made of a wool exterior and lined with luxurious sheared beaver. For $350, it's an investment too.

Dares, who has a bunny fur trapper hat of her own, says HBC believes that the trapper trend will last well into next year. "It's really a classic and it's extra nice that it's so Canadian."
"


A heady business venture

State-Journal.com:

"The mens restroom was out of order at the Shell Gas Station on Versailles Road.
It was 2005 and Eric Lynes was frustrated with his situation and unsure of the future. As if that werent enough, hed stopped for gas and needed to visit the restroom.
Station workers directed Lynes to the womens restroom in lieu of the out-of-service mens. Inside the restroom Lynes spotted a poster with the message, 'Never give up.'
Call it a sign. Lynes does. In fact, he can pinpoint various signs throughout his life.
His road started with a love of hats. Theres a picture of Lynes and his brother, Percy, posing in suits each wearing a hat when they were teens at his grandmothers home.
'Ive always had a passion for hats,' Lynes said.
Lynes, who grew up in Louisville, said he didnt know his attraction to hats would lead to ownership of historic Biltmore Hats in Guelph, Ontario, Canada.
After a rough childhood, and ill-advised decisions as a teenager, Lynes came to Frankfort in 1983 and studied accounting at Kentucky State University before accepting a job in the state auditors office and later Toyota.
In 2002, at a friends urging, Lynes opened Stingy Brim Hat Company in Frankfort.
On a trip to a large hat manufacturer in Massachusetts, Lynes found himself searching for a small-brimmed hat like one he saw Malcolm X wearing in a photo.
The Massachusetts shop owner said he could recreate the hat, but it would be lower quality.
'He said, 'if you want that quality, youll have to go to Canada,' Lynes recalled.
Lynes went to Canada.
Thats when he landed at Biltmore Hats, the nations most prominent hat maker. Since 1917 Biltmore has provided headwear for the Royal Canadian Mounted Police and the Augusta Golf Tournament, among others.
Lynes knew his Kentucky-based hat company could profit from a partnership with Biltmore Hats.
"What we needed to do is form an alliance with this company," he said.
The then-president of Biltmore agreed to a partnership. However, shortly after making the deal, the U.S. vendor went bankrupt.
Lynes didnt let that stop him.
"I had decided Im making hats no matter what," he said.
By September 2004 Biltmore in Canada was up for sale, so Lynes bid it, losing to a Toronto businessman.
The Toronto man was given five months to close the deal. When he couldnt complete the transaction within the allotted time, Lynes was offered the business. So he closed his Frankfort shop and bought Biltmore Hats in February 2005.
"It was an incredible experience, just praying and agonizing, "Lynes said. "I used everything I had to buy the company."
For the past two years hes been the sole owner of Biltmore Hats. Seventy-five percent of the companys business is in the U.S. All hats are made to order. The company serves men and women, although Lynes said 90 percent of his customers are black men.
"Everything we do is custom," he said. "No other hat company is making hats like this."
He said the company still has financial struggles, but he sees great potential because serious hat enthusiasts know the Biltmore brand and quality.
"Even though were struggling the brand is still strong," Lynes said. "These hats are so well-known."
The company is small, with 25 employees, but the minimal staff allows Lynes to be involved in all operations of the business including modeling for the catalog.
Lynes splits his time among Canada, Frankfort, and his travels to apparel shows such as MAGIC International in Las Vegas. At shows like MAGIC, Lynes finds himself in the presence of top fashion lines such as Sean John, owned by the entertainment mogul "Diddy," and fashion icons such as Ralph Lauren.
The popularity of Biltmore Hats is catching on in Hollywood too. One of the hats was featured in the 2006 movie, "The Good Shepherd. " Singer Alicia Keys and professional basketball player Allen Iverson sport Biltmores.
Lynes is hoping to get his hats on the heads of another pro basketball player, Shaquille ONeal, and talk show host Oprah Winfrey.
At 50, Lynes said hes learned to follow the signs along his path in life. He credits positive influences such as Dr. Doug Howell, a Frankfort chiropractor, his family, including wife, Tezeta, and three children, as well as God, for leading him down the right road.
He said hes in an awesome position now and encourages others to not let distractions get in the way of pursuing dreams.
"There is something for everybody, everybody was put here for a purpose," he said.
Lynes purpose is to share Biltmore Hats with the world.
"There really is a hat for every head," he said.
"

Briefs: Hats to make comeback next fall

Briefs: Hats to make comeback next fall - Pittsburgh Tribune-Review:

"Hat lovers, rejoice. Next fall and winter, headgear will make its big comeback. If it doesn't, I'll eat my new knit cap with earflaps.

Designers have topped off their fall/winter collections with a range of hat styles to suit anyone's head. Marc Jacobs' show became a virtual hat-a-palooza with everything from fetching fedoras to cozy cloches. DKNY updated the classic beret for 2007's That Girl. Betsey Johnson's pom-pom hats were playful and sexy. Michael Kors added to the warmth of his cool collection with fur and knit headwear.

So far, though, I tip my hat the most to designer Alice Temperley. Jeweled headpieces by Dickon O'Hagan were crowning moments at the Temperley London show."


Panama hat makers face new challenge to the iconic headwear

The Scotsman - International - Panama hat makers face new challenge to the iconic headwear:

"ECUADOREANS have long swallowed their pride and accepted that their most famous export will for evermore be known as the "Panama hat".

The hats used to be shipped east from Panama and were worn by labourers hewing out the canal across the isthmus there, opened in 1914. Since then, they have been misleadingly known as Panama hats.

But there are now more serious concerns than the misnomer. Cheap Chinese copies are devouring the market and only a few nimble-fingered villagers still know the art of weaving the iconic white hat with a black silk band.

"Obviously we would like to change the name to 'Ecuador hat' or 'Cuenca hat,' but the brand name has been established over such a long time," said Graciela Paredes, deputy-manager of a milliner in the stately Andean city of Cuenca.

'The problem is the next generation. It is just not attractive for them,' she added. Low wages in gruelling rural jobs have played a key role in the mass emigration of Ecuadoreans to Spain and the United States.

Over the years her firm Rafael Paredes and Sons, its boxes stamped with a trademark toad, has supplied venerable hat-maker Christy's of London and Marks & Spencer.

Cuenca, perched at about 8,200ft in the Andes is the capital of the Panama hat industry.

Palms hacked down by machete in the Manabi region of Ecuador's Pacific coast are treated and taken to Azuay province around Cuenca to be woven into dapper headwear.

Middlemen buy from the weavers and sell on to factories, a business that sparks charges of exploitation and profiteering.

'People say that we buy hats for $5 and sell them on for $100, it just does not work like that,' said Gladys Ortega, company lawyer for Homero Ortega and Sons, supplier to customers such as Sir Ian McKellen and Jeff Goldblum.

Average Panama hats cost $25 to $50 but fetch more than three times that price in western markets.

'But now there are these Chinese Panama hats costing $8. That is a vicious level of competition,' she complained.

Hatmakers in Cuenca agreed the industry was in sharp decline.

'We have to keep up the fight,' said Ortega, discussing with her sister Alicia the switch to Internet sales and the idea of putting patent protection on the name.

'But my father said one day all this would disappear,' she continued, referring to Homero Ortega's work in the Pacific coast towns of Montecristi and Jipijapa, where the finest type of Panama hat, the superfino, is made.

The superfino can fetch thousands of dollars: one of the specimens in the Ortega workshops was so finely woven its fabric looked as smooth as a cotton sheet. The story goes you can fill a superfino with water and not a drop will pass through. Rolled up, it should pass through a wedding ring.

'But they say there are only six or seven people who still know how to make the real superfinos,' she said.

Up in the mountains north of Cuenca, an 81-year-old called Rosa was working on a simple hat, moistening it with a maize cob as she worked on it.

'There was a woman round here who could make the superfinos, but she is dead now,' she said. 'The young people do not want to go into this kind of work. The girls have more opportunity for schooling and university.'"


A tip of the hat to Wagga Wagga, millinery mecca

A tip of the hat to Wagga Wagga, millinery mecca | Features | The Australian:

"WHILE the likes of Marc Jacobs and Carolina Herrera were captivating the fashion press in New York this week, the inaugural Australian International Millinery Forum was turning heads in rural NSW.

More than 140 people gathered in Wagga Wagga for five days of workshops such as Wicked Wire, Creating with Crinoline and Ruche, Gather 'n Roll. 'This is our way of putting our city on the map,' says organiser Linda Tillman. 'I think we have a chance of becoming the capital of hat-making.'

No representatives from Vogue or Harper's Bazaar were on hand to see the 12 tutors from Australia, Germany, Austria and the US test the millinery mettle of participants, but Tillman is adamant that hats engage a wide community in the creative aspects of fashion.

"The forum grew out of the courses in millinery we have been running at Charles Sturt University," Tillman says. "Through these courses we have developed quite a strong millinery community in town and they were eager to take their skills to the next level."

Tillman went straight to Australia's top hatters, engaging Melbourne Cup favourite Peter Jago, Neil Grigg, theatrical designer Jean Carroll and Richard Nylon to take part in the forum. Germany's Constance Willems, Austrian Christine Rohr-Bernard, and Americans Eia Radosavljevic and Jan Wutkowski were enlisted to introduce international techniques.

"It's a pretty courageous thing they're doing here," says Wutkowski, a former research librarian. "In the US the profile of milliners is much lower. In the south people wear hats for shade and in the north they wear them for warmth, so our designs tend to be more functional.

"People here like a touch of glamour that will stand out at a wedding or function. There is certainly a 'look at me' factor to the Australian hats, which suits the personality of the people. I mean everyone here is having fun with something on their head."

Armed with hat blocks, metres of felt, sinamay and bags of fabric flowers the forum's participants kept a closer eye on their teachers and classmates than the new trends trotted out on the New York catwalk.

"Fashion obviously does impact on what we create," says Wutkowski. "Trends filter through but hat-makers are their own designers. They find inspiration in what's around, how they're feeling and the materials they use."

Tillman says that most participants in the workshops were hobbyists eager to make an impression at the Murrumbidgee Turf Club's Fashions on the Field in May, or simply to satisfy a creative itch. "Hats are an easy way to embrace fashion," she says. "You don't have to be young, thin and rich to look good in a hat." It helps, however, if you're a woman. Only six men braved the forum.

Joining the locals were enthusiasts from around the country as well as 20 international visitors who responded to advertisements in the millinery bible, The Hat magazine.

"I left home on Saturday and arrived here on Monday," says Bimbo Sofeso, who has been making hats in Nigeria for 20 years. "It's a long way to come but the workshops here are particularly interesting and in this business it's important to keep learning. I would never have thought of making a hat from crinoline before."

Sofeso's clientele at her business, Bimby Lads, in Lagos, would reach for their rosary beads at the thought of wearing hats to a racing carnival, preferring to parade their purchases at church. "For us Sunday is a big affair," Sofeso says. "Going to church is a special occasion and that's when we wear our hats."

As well as impressing fellow parishioners, hats in Nigeria often signify social allegiances. "You might belong to a ladies society who all wear fuschia hats. It's a part of your uniform."

Sofeso was surprised at the Australian approach to millinery. "It really is amazing to come to the end of the earth and discover such creativity. People are fearless with what they make. At home we always thought England was the home of creativity but what's happening in Wagga Wagga is certainly impressive."

Plans for the forum to become an annual event are being considered and Tillman is waiting for feedback from locals who attended Grigg's Fascinator or Fantasiser class and Wutkowski's demonstration of the holiday packable hat.

"Starting a festival is a lot like hat-making itself," Tillman says. "You begin with baby steps by taking some feathers or ribbon and making a fascinator. But before too long you've caught the bug and you're wearing a wide-brimmed masterpiece."

"

Hat attack: Fashion makes a cloche call

Greater Paramus News and Lifestyle Magazine - Hat attack: Fashion makes a cloche call:

"Got a big party to go to tonight? Why not whip up a Parisian-style cloche, circa 1920s Coco Chanel? In less than an hour, according to millinery designer Eugenia Kim, you can look like some of the world's most glamorous celebrities, including her customers Gwyneth Paltrow, Madonna or Beyonce.

'The women who wear my designs are confident and have a certain sense of humor,' Kim says. 'They are not afraid to be the center of attention.'

And now Kim has translated her millinery know-how to a new book, 'Saturday Night Hat' (Potter, $20). This guidebook contains 15 hat how-tos and covers the basics of hat-making, and the patterns are easy enough that you can start the project Saturday morning and wear it out Saturday night.

Kim's love of hat-making began when she shaved her head after a bad haircut and wore a cloche she had made of red feathers at Parsons School of Design to go shopping in downtown Manhattan. The rest is history.

"Several store owners immediately took notice of my unique chapeau," she recalls. "By the end of the day, I had appointments with three boutiques to show my collection."

The cloche is still one of Kim's favorite "Saturday Night" designs - a hat put on the fashion map in the 1920s by Paris designer Coco Chanel, who accessorized her menswear-inspired clothes with the close-fitting "bell" hat. The jazzy fitted hat is once again making a statement in fashion head wear.

After college and the corporate world, Kim's cloche hats signaled her fun-loving side; she identified with those party-girl flappers. "The 1920s were the original girl-power decade," she says, "and my absolute favorite era. After women won the right to vote in 1920, it was so time to party."

Cloche-wearing women of the Jazz Age - such as Zelda Fitzgerald, Dorothy Parker and Anais Nin - inspired the New York milliner, who has made the bell shape popular once again.

"My mother bought me a Singer sewing machine that stayed unused for years," Kim admits, "until the day David LaChapelle, the world-famous fashion photographer and my personal favorite shutterbug, commissioned my cloches in primary-colored, rainproof vinyls for a photo shoot only two days away."

Kim's book includes not only the pattern for this reversible six-panel tailored cloche, but patterns for many more fun hats, including berets, beanies, pillboxes, fedoras and newsboy caps. She also includes useful resources and tips from how to care for your hats to a glossary of sewing and hat terminology.

If you're never sure exactly where to wear your hat and where to take it off, here are a few of Kim's rules:

WHEN TO TAKE IT OFF

Hat etiquette for ladies has been a bit more lax, since some hats were pinned securely to one's new "do" or tied with ribbons and would have been awkward to remove in public. There was a time when every man wore a hat and had to tip it when he saw a lovely lady. After John F. Kennedy stopped wearing hats to major events as president, men followed his lead. Nowadays, you're lucky to find a man with enough taste to wear a nice hat.

KIM'S RULE NO. 1

Take off your hat when you're eating. It's totally gross to see cock feathers swimming in your soup because you were too lazy to take if off pre-chow.

KIM'S RULE NO. 2

When attending a movie, a concert, or a Broadway show, take off your hat as a courtesy to the people who don't have front-row tickets. The only exception to this rule is if you happen to have a bald head.

KIM'S RULE NO. 3

When attending a funeral, or when your pet dies, or even if you lose your iPod, show some respect and take off your hat. The perfect accessory - a moment of silence.

KIM'S RULE NO. 4

If you're on a Roman holiday and have a hankering to see the pope, visit the Vatican and leave your chapeau unchaperoned (that is, show some respect and take off your hat).

KIM'S RULE NO. 5

When you're on your way to court - and let's hope it's for jury duty or just a parking ticket - be sure to remove your hat as a sign of deference."


Fashionistas, take your marks

Fashionistas, take your marks:

"The fashionable are an honest lot. While some people try to pretend that looks don't matter, the fashionable fully embrace their superficiality.

And there's nothing quite as deliciously shallow as fashion week in New York.

This is when thousands of people -- from big-name apparel presidents to no-name friends-of-friends-of-a-stylist's cousin -- gather in the name of clothes. And fight over seats. (For a business based on beauty, things can turn ugly quickly.)

American designers unveil their fall 2007-08 collections Feb. 2-9 at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. Almost 90 formal runway shows are scheduled in a giant tent pitched in a midtown Manhattan park. The tent has two venues that seat 420 and 970 but actually pack in far more with standing room. In addition, scores of smaller shows and events take place throughout the, city hosted by companies hoping to cash in on the cachet of fashion week.

This season, Portland designer Dayna Pinkham (www.pinkhammillinery.com) brings her Pinkham Millinery to New York for an informal trunk show. It can be a challenge for a small company to get people to leave the tents' back-to-back runway shows to take in yet more fashion.

"This is my second year of it," Pinkham said. "I've been going about trying to figure the right way to do it. Last year one of my clients sponsored me, and we had a show in one of her apartments," across from the Museum of Modern Art. The event drew a respectable 30 people. "Now we wanted to try more of a commercial location."

Pinkham will display her hats on the third floor of a trendy restaurant Thursday afternoon. She already has a few appointments booked with buyers and media, and is hopeful they will lead to sales and publicity in the months to come.

Fashion week is, after all, a trade show. That fact often gets lost in the flash of the celebrity, the jumbling of groupies and the general fabulousness of the weeklong event. Image is, if not everything, pretty darn profitable. "


Esther's headwear rant drives top hatter mad

Scotsman.com News - Opinion - Esther's headwear rant drives top hatter mad Time for a wind-up:

"HELL hath no fury like a hatter scorned. When Esther Rantzen came on strong recently about headwear for women (and the odd man), ranting and raving about hats and those who still deign to wear them, she fair got Yvette Jelfs' dander up.

Entirely predictable. Edinburgh's best-known milliner was bound to take up the nearest cudgel.

I found Ms Jelfs, 39, apoplectic, positively spitting and screaming at her Holyrood home where, nursing her two month-old daughter, she teaches millinery.

'I think Esther Rantzen should go - not the hat! That woman is so old-fashioned, how on earth can she advise today's woman what's fashionable?

'People will only be figure of fun wearing a hat if they go into a store and buy what they think matches their outfit rather than what suits them personally.

"A hat should only be bought from a milliner who can advise a client on what suits them.

"Jenners used to have a brilliant department. The ladies who ran it were passionate about teaching the purchaser on what to wear.

"Hats aren't only for weddings. They can add the finishing touch for various occasions. They can be carried off by shy as well as self-assured women. They're for every type of facial shape and colour, as well as height and personality.

"Think Audrey Hepburn, Grace Kelly, Jackie Kennedy, Princess Diana and David Bowie's ever-youthful wife Iman. They've all been classic and elegant, never looking tired or dated in photos."

"Hats are still good winter wear. A third of your body heats escapes through your head, so keep it warm and you'll go around cosy and smiling."

If Rantzen is a ranter, Jelfs is something of raver. So tomorrow it's headwear at dawn. It's got to be steel helmets.

"


'Crowns' is a toe-tapping tale not to be missed

'Crowns' is a toe-tapping tale not to be missed:

"Crowns, a gospel-infused musical, is nothing short of dazzling. It's one of the most joyful shows I've seen in a long while. I plan on spending the month of February urging people not to miss it. I guarantee afterwards you'll walk up the aisle feeling energized and uplifted. This wonderful Open Door Repertory production is an unforgettable experience.

Now I can only speak as a white guy, but I always sense that lots of white folks feel that celebrations of African American cultural heritage during Black History Month are not really for them. They're not racists, mind you. They just fail to connect. Well, here's a feel-good show about a half-dozen black women and their vibrant hats that's both inspirational and fun-a true toe-tapper-and it's for everyone. You certainly don't have to be black, female, or a fancy hat lover to be captivated by this dynamic evening.

Director McKinley Johnson achieves a combination revival meeting and fashion show with his engaging ensemble. Johnson's choreography is lively. The energy of his cast of six women and one man really raises the roof. Everyone has strong voices. I had to constantly keep reminding myself that I was seated in a grammar school auditorium in Oak Park (Hatch School) and not one of those slick Halsted Street theatres. The entire vivacious cast shines.

Crowns was adapted by playwright Regina Taylor from a best-selling coffeetable book featuring black-and-white photographs of African-American women wearing their church hats. During segregation when blacks had few opportunities to gather socially, their houses of worship were just about the only places where they could come together to express themselves through worship, song, or fashion.

"Adorning one's self for worship," one character explains, is an African tradition. This wonderful musical shows how black women would define themselves by the hats they wore.

Desla Epison wears a backwards baseball cap and raps her lines when the show begins. She's Yolanda, a streetwise homegirl from Brooklyn whose beloved brother has been shot and killed. Not knowing quite what to do with the angry, grieving girl, her mother sends her down South to live with her grandmother. So Yolanda arrives with a chip on both shoulders. Epison effectively conveys typical teenage body language.

Initially Yolanda is skeptical and resistant. She wants little to do with hats. They're itchy or hot or heavy or they mess up one's hairdo, she insists. But soon Yolanda begins to interact with her grandmother and her circle of other older church-lady friends-"Hat Queens," they call themselves-who proudly wear their elaborate headgear on Sundays.

Predictably, perhaps, Yolanda begins to turn her life around and find connections to black traditions and spirituality as she listens to the women's rich oral history monologues.

Their down-home stories, loosely strung together, are either touching or funny-and often are both. Each member of the ensemble takes on multiple roles. Monique Whittingham, playing a woman who sings in church even though "no one ever asked her to," does a chillingly beautiful rendition of "His Eye Is On The Sparrow."

Most of the soul-stirring music is well known. Some of the numbers used to be called spirituals, such as "Wade in the Water" and "We're Marching to Zion." The score also incorporates tribal rhythms, blues, old-time jazz ("When the Saints Go Marching In"), and even hip-hop music.

From the moment Deanna K. Reed comes on as wise Mama Shaw, a proud older woman, it's evident she possesses a commanding voice and perfect timing. She often brings down the house. Yet there are quiet, moving moments, too, like when Reed describes the experience of buying her first hat in a previously segregated department store in the '60s.

Renardo Robinson, the all-purpose male in the episodes, plays all the men's roles, from a rural preacher to an angry husband of a woman who keeps sneaking more and more hats into their tiny little house. Robinson tap dances and even performs a baptism in a river.

People generally don't wear hats like they used to. In earlier decades both men and women, white and black, seldom left home without a head covering. I remember my father's fedora and my mother and her sisters in the '50s wearing hats and gloves just to ride the el downtown to go shopping. In the winter, of course, hats are still worn for utilitarian reasons-for warmth. But many in the African-American community continue to embrace the tradition of wearing stylish hats to church. A hat, many say, makes the wearer a queen and the hat, her crown.

"Sometimes under these hats," one character explains, "there's a lot of joy and a lot of sorrow."

Sherita Lyles, as a preacher's wife, lays down the millinery "Hat Queen Rules": "Don't let people knock the hat; don't let people touch the hat; don't hug too close."

The set by Steven Saliny features a large tree bearing dozens of hats.

Clifford Dubose is music director, Oscar Brown is the percussionist. Their two-man band is terrific.

Crowns, deeply rooted in the African-American experience, is proud and powerful yet never preachy or dull. So if you are looking to acquire some "hattitude," a word coined in the show, this magical, hand-clapping, foot-stomping 90-some minute celebration is just the ticket.
"