Sunday, October 29, 2006

Fashion's just cultural shorthand for how we see ourselves

Fashion's just cultural shorthand for how we see ourselves:

"In San Pedro the other day I ran into a guy wearing a hat. Not a dopey baseball cap, but a real black-with-a silk-band cool cat fedora of a kind that hasn't been much seen in this country since John Kennedy.

Who figured that one thatch-haired U.S. president with movie-star looks refusing to wear a hat could practically kill off an entire industry?

'They're coming back, you know,' said the hat guy, who was wrong. Except for Halloween parties, hats are done, over, finished.

I am, of course, talking about fashion, specifically about the comings and goings of fashion as dictated by a billion-dollar industry that many mistake for an art form but which is -- in fact -- just another way to turn a buck. If that weren't the case, then why aren't my daughter's $160 jeans hanging in the Louvre instead of her sister's closet?"


Saturday, October 28, 2006

Veil is not enforced, but encouraged in Iran

The Peninsula On-line: Qatar's leading English Daily:


"TEHRAN • From body-covering black chadors to colourful headscarves, conforming to the obligatory wearing of the veil in Iran is interpreted in a myriad of ways by different women in this diverse country.

The veil has always been a potent symbol in Iran – compulsory for hundreds of years, then banned by Reza Shah in a 1930s Westernisation drive before its wearing was made mandatory again after the 1979 Islamic revolution.

“We believe that in the rich and deep Iranian Islamic cultures clothing has its special place and has its own long history,” Javad Arianmanesh, the deputy head of the Iranian parliament's cultural commission, said.

“Therefore we do not want Western fashion designers to make fashions for us.”

Wearing the veil in Iran means covering the head and the body’s contours but even chador-clad Iranian women do not cover all their face.

The niqab – a veil which leaves only a slit for the eyes and whose use has caused such controversy in Britain – is almost unseen in Iran although a variant can be seen on traditional Iranian women in the south.

The authorities prefer Iranian women wear either the chador, an all encompassing garment swathed around the body or a combination of full hair-covering (hijab) headscarf and long body coat (manto).

However, under the presidencies of Akbar Hashemi Rafsanjani and his reformist successor Mohammad Khatami, urban women began to interpret the rules more liberally, as authorities focussed their efforts on fighting crime rather than rigidly enforcing dress codes.

Gradually women – especially in Tehran – began to expose the front of their hair under their scarves, wear make-up and trim the length of their mantos.

Sometimes they push the boundaries too far and every summer, as coat lengths become shorter and dressing skimpier, the authorities crack down on women whose clothing is deemed un-Islamic.

By the end of August this year, the Iranian police said they had handed out 64,000 warnings to women for poor wearing of the veil.

The headscarf remains an issue of great sensitivity - Iranian women's rights campaigner and lawyer Shirin Ebadi caused an uproar in conservative circles in 2003 when she collected her Nobel Peace Prize bareheaded.

While the veil was not made compulsory immediately after the Islamic revolution, it rapidly became obligatory for women to hide every strand of their hair and cover themselves in dark blue or black colours.

However the subsequent relaxation of enforcement has meant dress styles have become anything but uniform – any Tehran street scene contains both women in chadors and those sporting fashionable sunglasses and trendy mantos."


Irina Sardareva in the House of Hats

Bulgaria: Irina Sardareva in the House of Hats:

"Her hats have visited the Pope, have drunk tea with Queen Elizabeth II, have been at the horse races at Ascot. Her name is Irina Sardareva, Bulgaria's most sumptuous and famous hat-maker.


By Milena Hristova


It all started like a fairy tale about the dream, the faith and the roles that we play.

'Every woman needs a secret place, to be herself and with herself alone, and change her images without looking silly', says Irina Sardareva, Bulgaria's most famous and eccentric hat-maker. 'That is how I started to dream about a house of the hats, where the woman can find her role by picking the right hat and go out like queen.'

Negotiations to buy the house that she chose started with a misfire. After a fresh start, however, Irina saw her dream revived. Finally she acquired the house of her dreams. Quite auspiciously it turned out that the woman who built the house had studied hat-making before fleeing to France.

'I follow my intuition and this helps me choose the right direction. There is such a thing as destiny,' Irina smiles.

Located in a neat Vladajska Street in Sofia, it is the only house of hats in Bulgaria and claims to be bigger that the one оwned by Philip Tracy in London.

Bulgarian traditions in hat-making were interrupted in 1946, when a law on illegal enrichment branded hat-makers as a social evil. It was only in the 60s with Khrushchev's hat that hat-making was revived.

'When I first arrived in Bulgaria in 1978 men pointed at me and said: Look, an air hostess is walking down the street!', Irina recalls.

After three generations were deprived of their flair for and attitude to wearing hats, Irina pins her hopes on the young people.

'I am very happy that the fashion of the young people includes the hat because they understand it makes you stand out in the crowd. I see in these young people my future clients, who will come to me when they grow up. '

The profile of her average client?

'She is an eccentric, self-confident woman, she knows the excitement of the instant change that a hat brings. She is not necessarily a wealthy woman, but rather middle class with a certain upbringing, who wants to be different.'

'It is passion that I put in each of the hats. But you know - the favourite child is not born yet.'

Eclecticism marks the beginning of each century, according to Sardareva. 'People look back and find many appealing traits from the past.'

Curious about the latest fashion hat trends?

'Anything goes', Sardareva says with a smile.

Guess it depends on how you play the role.
"

Better headgear through chemistry

Better headgear through chemistry - CNN.com:

"For the helmet-haters: a soft beanie lined with elastic polymers that stiffen upon wipeout

Nineteen-year-old expert skier Janne van Enckevort was told that this cap would harden when his head struck the ice.

To make sure, he removed the spongy pads lining the hat, crumpled them into a ball, and then smashed them against the floor.

The ball stiffened upon impact, then quickly softened again.

The protective pads morph because they are made of a material called d3o.

Engineered by a British company of the same name, d3o is an elastic polymer that tenses in response to quick movements.

'It doesn't protect you as much as a hard helmet,' cautions Swiss entrepreneur Jurg Ramseier, who released the first Ribcap last November.

'It's for people who don't like to wear helmets.'

Van Enckevort, for example, uses a helmet in the park but prefers his 9.5-ounce beanie on the rest of the mountain.

Ribcap's Hendrix model is expected to hit U.S. stores in October. Eventually you'll see d3o in everything from skateboarding shoes to bulletproof vests.
How it works

Elastic polymer pads inside the Ribcap create a soft shell.

Smack your head, and the shock causes the molecules inside the padding to tightly bond, forming a structure that resembles a chain-link fence.

This stiffening helps absorb and redistribute the force of the impact.
"

Virtual reality helmet

Tech Briefly: 10/28/06:

"TOKYO -- It's about as glamorous as wearing an old-style TV set on your head.

But the dome-shaped headgear from Japanese electronics maker Toshiba Corp. isn't meant to be fashionable. It's designed to show images in a 360-degree view -- synched with the motion of the wearer's head to deliver the illusion of being someplace else: a cityscape at night, for example, or outer space.

The still experimental 6-pound bubble-headed helmet has infrared sensors that detect which way the wearer's head is moving. A projector in the back of the helmet displays corresponding images on a 16-inch screen right before the user's eyes.

Eventually, Toshiba believes, the technology will come in handy for computer games or enhancing the impact of movies.

"

What to wear to the office

What to wear to the office | the Daily Mail:

"The accessory of this season is a Balenciaga hat, the Bombe Feutre, costing £890 and shaped like a riding hat crossed with a bowler. If you have looked at any fashion magazines recently you will have seen this hat, which bears a certain resemblance to a pudding basin, teamed with any number of cocoon coats and voluminous mini skirts.

Last February on the Balenciaga catwalk it accessorised all the outfits in what was universally regarded as a stellar show. This appearance has been hugely influential in promoting a large amount of headwear in the shops this autumn. I very much doubt, however, that you will be seeing that hat, or anything close to it, on any of the successful career women that people our newspapers and television screens this winter.

Condoleezza Rice, Margaret Beckett, Angela Merkel, Cherie Blair, Nicola Horlick will, I expect pass on this particular fashion accessory. But nor are you likely to see them in skinny black trousers, vertiginous platform heels, capes or mini skirts, to list just a few of this season's main fashion trends.

"

Vancouver 2010 adds nine Canadian businesses to its licensee program

CNW Group:

"VANCOUVER, Oct. 25 /CNW/ - The Vancouver Organizing Committee for the 2010 Olympic and Paralympic Winter Games (VANOC) is pleased to welcome nine new Canadian companies to its Official Licensee Program under the 'Apparel' and 'Headwear' categories. The licensees, including five BC-based companies and four located in Toronto, Markham and Montreal, will develop and sell products bearing Vancouver 2010 emblems and the Olympic and Paralympic brands.

<<
The licensees include:
- Aritzia LP (Apparel and Headwear; women's fashion), Vancouver, BC
- Filmar Sportswear Canada Inc. (Headwear; caps and knitted toques), Montreal, QC
- Kootenay Knitting Company Ltd. (Apparel and Headwear; knitted sweaters, vests/scarves, matching toques), Cranbrook, BC
- New Era Cap Canada (Headwear; caps and toques), Toronto, ON - Panabo Sales Ltd. (Apparel; scarves and ties), North Vancouver, BC
- Paris Glove of Canada (Apparel; gloves and mitts), Montreal, QC - Please Mum (Apparel; kids, toddler and infant clothing), Vancouver, BC
- Trimark Sportswear Group Inc. (Apparel; lifestyle/activewear), Markham, ON
- Wilson International Products Ltd. (Apparel; cotton/cotton-blend T- shirts/sweatshirts), Richmond, BC
>> "


Hats off to reading

A wonderful idea for other teachers.

Hats off to reading:

"Hats of every size, color and theme adorned the heads of students at Red Oak Elementary last Friday. Each child carried a book that corresponded to his or her homemade masterpiece. The entire student body marched around the school blacktop as music played and parents watched.

"It's fun to see everyone's creative ideas," said Paige Loter, whose son, Nicholas, 5, wore a wide-brimmed straw hat topped by corn-on-the-cob, tomatoes and a teapot in honor of his reading choice, "Farmer Annie's Garden." Nicholas kept his head still to keep the laden hat balanced while he paraded with his kindergarten class.

The cap concoctions and parade were part of a two-week literacy program to encourage students at the Oak Park school to read. Other events included a visit by Barbara Jean Hicks, author of "Jitterbug Jam." Children participated in a read-a-thon, obtaining pledges from family and friends for reading 20 to 30 minutes every night. In past years, the school has raised as much as $7,500 that teachers used to purchase classroom books, supplies and Mother's and Father's Day gifts.

A fundraiser held at Barnes and Noble bookstore helped the school raise money to purchase DVDs for its social studies, language arts and life science curriculum.

Red Oak has had a literacy program for many years, said first grade teacher Patti Holland, current organizer of the event, along with parents Shelly Resnick and Michelle Kantor. The project is a collaborative effort among studentsteachers and parents.

The hat parade began three years ago when a friend gave Holland the idea. In honor of this year's theme, Holland dressed as a pirate every day for two weeks and handed out telescopes to studentscalled "bookaneers."

"We had new places to visit and characters to meet," Holland said.

The hat parade is the culmination of a program that encourages students to demonstrate creativity and enthusiasm for reading. This year, there were top hats, baseball caps, witch hats, fedoras, sombreros, cowboy hats, wizard hats, bonnets and many original designs. One child wore a plastic bucket.

There were hats representing "The Giving Tree," by Shel Silverstein, and "Green Eggs and Ham," by Dr. Seuss. Some had pictures of animals, others had flowers, letters or numbers. Sponge Bob showed up on a number of heads--one hat was made to look like the popular television character's underwater pineapple house.

"Reading will enrich them for the rest of their lives," Holland said. "They can go on an adventure every day through a book."

The program worked for Sivabalan Muthupalaniappan, 5, according to his mother, Indira. Sivabalan's hat featured paper pumpkins and fall leaves hanging from a cowboy hat.

"He loves to read. We have to tell him to stop," Muthupalaniappan said. "


Sunday, October 22, 2006

A Historic Hat Shop Looks Forward to a New Home

A Historic Hat Shop Looks Forward to a New Home - October 17, 2006 - The New York Sun:

"Most sartorially savvy New Yorkers can tell you where to find at least one of the few hat stores left in the city. There's J.J. Hat Center on Fifth Avenue just below the Empire State Building, Arnold Hatters on Eighth Avenue near Macy's, and Bencraft Hatters's two locations, in Boro Park and Williamsburg. But only a true headgear maven knows where Worth & Worth, the Tiffany of local haberdasheries, has been hiding itself these past few years.

After nearly 80 years in business, Worth & Worth closed its shop at Madison Avenue and 43rd Street in 2000. While many patrons assumed it had vanished for good, it has actually been doing a healthy mail-order and Internet business out of a small showroom deep inside a building at the corner of 55th Street and Sixth Avenue.

But those years of relative anonymity will end November 2, when Worth & Worth rejoins the sunlit world, taking up residence in a new storefront on West 57th Street.They'll celebrate with a gala opening attended by favored clients and fellow hatters.

'It'll be good to get our face on the street,' the suave, acutely polite man who is the public face of Worth & Worth, Orlando Palacios, said. He co-owns the business with Harry and Heidi Rosenholtz. Mr. Palacios sports an imperial goatee, and is a fine, walking advertisement for hat-wearing, since he looks so sharp in them.The new store will carry Worth & Worth usual line of felt fedoras, handmade in Guerra, Italy, at the foot of the Italian Alps; hand-woven Montecristi straw hats from Ecudor; as well as assorted porkpies, derbies, wool caps, and beaver, mink, and sable fur hats."


New store fit for kid

South Bend Tribune:

"MISHAWAKA -- Shoppers who visited the new Lids Kids on Friday morning agreed that looking for hats and caps to fit their babies, toddlers and little children is frustrating.

Finding one that is the right size is remarkable, they explained and complained.

'I have been to all the kids stores,' said April Stamp of Granger said as she glanced at her 8-month-old daughter Mia. 'The hats I find hang in her eyes, and she screams if that happens.'

Lori Piccininni drove out to University Park Mall Friday to find hats for her 14-month-old twins, Angelina and Anthony. She wanted them to wear hats to the pumpkin patch today.

Piccininni left the store with a purple Care Bear hat that fit Angelina, and matching sippy cups with Chicago Bear logos.

"I love it," she said glancing back at the balloons streaming across the Lids Kids entrance, not far from a group of men in business suits watching as the patrons streamed in and out.

Glenn Campbell is confident Mishawaka is the right choice, the right market for Lids Kids, a brand new concept that sells licensed and branded hats and caps, apparel and accessories.

Campbell, co-founder of Hat World Corp., Indianapolis, cut the ribbon on this -- the third store in the chain, with Mayor Jeff Rea beside him, thanking executives for their confidence in the Mishawaka market.

"This market is ideal," said Irene Mills, marketing director at the mall. "Our last research showed 50 percent of shoppers have children in their families. This store will do well, I think. I really think so."
"

Stepping out of Myra's House of Fashion

SUN Weekend:

"The young women from the East Zone weren’t the only ones who impressed the audience at the Multipurpose Cultural and Exhibition Centre on Wednesday night.

Starting small and expanding, designer and seamstress Myra Browne-Josiah, owner of Myra’s House of Fashion, had the audience oohing, aahing and shouting, “I want that one.” From hats to dresses, she makes them all. The array of well tailored casual to formal wear modelled has found Myra’s phone ringing off the hook since the show. Undoubtedly, the black and white hat with matching flare bottomed dress was a crowd pleaser.

Whether by inspiration or your own design, Myra can decorate any hat of your imagination to match any attire you own. I love the madras hats and the matching dresses. Myra truly shows that Independence can be chic and sexy with her personal touch on the madras.

Beginning in her mother’s kitchen 25 years ago, Myra knew sewing was her gift, and quickly others saw her talent with design and sewing bloom. Probably causing riffles every now and then, especially as orders came in, Myra moved from the kitchen to an attachment on the porch, which her mother made just for her.

Thirteen years ago, upon building her own home, Myra opened her doors to Myra’s House of Fashion. Needless to say, business has been great, and growing, and Myra keeps herself quite embedded in the latest styles and designs so her customers will definitely turn heads. I know the models certainly did in Myra’s ensembles.

If you’re interested in owning an original piece by Myra, or you’d love to finally own a hat to match your dress you can contact Myra in Seatons or call her at 463-0254."


Bono law: You go on a head

Independent Online Edition > This Britain:

"When is a hat not a hat? When it's an iconic-ironic sartorial manifestation of your personal and artistic philosophy. This, at any rate, is Bono's explication for the significance of his Stetson, which he's trying to wrest back from U2's erstwhile stylist Lola Cashman in an ongoing court case. According to his testimony, it was this headgear, rather than any amount of keening vocals and guitar arpeggios, that propelled the group into the enormo-dome stratosphere.

'I dressed like Nana Mouskouri before,' confessed Bono. 'She [Cashman] had a very good eye, and I'd already had the idea of making the Stetson a trademark. It's an American icon and it was part of my idea of how I wanted to present myself to the world in an ironic sense. Plus I thought it could be archived in the future.' It seems a crushing amount of cultural weight - part-semiotic determinant, part holy relic - for a high-crowned, wide-brimmed accessory to bear.

But Stetsongate is just the latest flashpoint in the vexed history of male millinery. Since the hat lost its status as the exemplar of worker-drone conformity it's been reincarnated as its swinging opposite. 'These days, any man wearing a hat is perceived to be making some kind of fashion statement,' says the milliner Stephen Jones. 'It's become a way of standing out from the crowd. Even the closest thing men have to a utilitarian hat - the baseball cap - is a way of advertising affiliations.'

No one knows this socio-cultural-stylistic minefield better than William Hague. His decision to wear a Hague-branded baseball cap to the Notting Hill Carnival was, commentators agreed, the chief reason for his tenure as Tory leader being short-lived. His attempt to be 'down' with the kids was ridiculed.

Hague made an elemental mistake, according to Jeremy Hackett, founder of the eponymous blue-chip outfitting chain. 'A hat cannot simply confer cool,' he counsels, 'though it can certainly top off pre-existing personality traits.' He cites the trilby and its adoption by iconoclasts as disparate as Kenneth Clarke and Pete Doherty.

Badly Drawn Boy's battered beanie serves, says the Cavalier Daily website, "to reinforce the apathetic/tortured singer-songwriter archetype co-opted from Elliott Smith, and to legitimise him to the espresso hipsters".

Hats can be used to subversive ends. The top hat was a looming status symbol, a sign its bearer had risen through the public school ranks to become a staid burgher in histrade. Now it's been reclaimed either as would-be social satire (the late Screaming Lord Sutch fought 40 elections in his) or dissolute fancy dress.

Slade's Noddy Holder was wont to Ʃpater le bourgeois (or, at least, the bourgeois who regularly watched Top of the Pops in the 1970s) by covering his topper with dazzling mirror shards.

Certainly, most men would rather go hatless than have to ponder all the Bono-esque sub-textual signals they could be sending out by donning a deerstalker. That is, unless they're as simple a soul as Jay Kay, who "just likes wearing hats, to cover my, like, greasy hair", and whose more outrƩ offerings got him nicknamed "the prat in the hat".

Or unless, that is, they're wearing a hat for the most prosaic reason of all. If Bono had peered out from under his Stetson brim, he'd have seen that, right alongside him, The Edge was sporting his own headgear. And it wasn't because he was in the midst of a 10-gallon cultural studies seminar. It was because he was going ever so slightly bald.
"

Friday, October 20, 2006

Heady business

Heady business - Fairfax Business Network:

"You could ask what would motivate a 70 year old hatmaker and her 31 year old protege to start a small business specialising in hand made millinery?

After all hats hark back to a bygone era, as does hand-making anything in these days of mass produced imported product.

The simple answer is that Jennifer Nairn and Johnathon Howard had an overwhelming desire to establish their own business. The unlikely business partners believe their dedication to the Hatmaker venture is strong enough to overcome the numerous challenges.

'I saw there was a gap for a hat shop with a difference with a fresh approach' Howard says of realising his long held dream.

'I've gotten a second wind at seventy and have more inspiration and passion than every' adds Nairn.

The pair first met ten years ago when Howard was 21 years old and waiting tables. A chance job placement with the Ways Youth Employment Service landed him at the acclaimed Neil Grigg Millinery, where head milliner Nairn took him under her wing and began teaching him the basics of hat making.

Howard explains that "being locked in a room together for ten years" meant they became firm friends and often discussed starting a business together.

"We even talked about opening a sandwich shop together or maybe something in gardening. We just wanted to do something," he says with a laugh.

"In the end we though let's do a hat shop because that's what we're good at and you should stick with what you know" adds Nairn.

The first and most crucial step was to find the correct site which ended up being on busy New South Head Rd in the heart of Sydney's exclusive eastern suburbs shopping enclave, Double Bay.

The shop front is ideally located near a set of lights so passers by can see their carefully constructed window displays. The shop also has a small outdoor area where they hand dye all the straw and ribbons.

(Labor intensive are two words that come to mind with Hatmaker but they insist it gives them a competitive advantage in things like color range).

Upstairs boasts a work room where they make everything from their own hat-blocks to the various hat creations. Howard proudly displays the high quality well priced raw materials he sourced from overseas by going online.

"I sourced from all over Europe and America but not China because they are lower quality" he explains.

He also explains that they are using proper straw for their hats as opposed to the sinamay fabric which is commonly used.

Their point of difference, they claim, is their belief that their hats are better than the other established names.

They are wary of criticizing their competitors but then point out they don't really see them as competitors because Hatmakers is of such a higher standard.

"We're better made and a much better quality hat" Howard says.

Nairn says "others either follow that manufactured look or it looks very studentish. The work doesn't look professional whereas ours look very professional and have very individual designs".

But despite their obvious skill at their craft and dedication to quality, one still wonders how they will win market share in such a small and competitive market.

"Our main challenge is getting people through the door" Nairn concedes.

They have ruled out any form of advertising and instead are totally relying on the efforts of the public relations company which they have hired.

It's a big ask and Nairn admits they don't really have an alternative if the PR doesn't work. Apart from the usual word of mouth that is.

"We're basically letting the hats sell themselves" Howard says.

"We have gorgeous window displays and we're in a good position right at the intersection. The shop is all lit up at night and so far all of our customers have been passing by and seen the window".

They also have a basic web-site but point out it really is only for information purposes as you can't sell a hand made hat online.

Of course their other big challenge is the highly seasonal nature of their industry and the obvious cash flow issues that can entail.

The Hatmaker shop opened in the middle of the year, giving the pair time to prepare for the Spring Racing Carnival rush.

While they recognise that hat sales are firmly concentrated on two key seasons, they stress they will use the winter lull to build up stock (as well as take a holiday they joke). They currently have about 40 items in stock and are hoping to double that in the coming weeks. They can make between 14 to 20 hats a week.

But the pair are also developing other lines which should help increase year round sales of the Hatmaker brand.

One idea is a men's range because, as Howard explains, "other milliners don't do boys hats".

Nairn is also keen "to attack the bridal market" but is not sure exactly how to break into that apart from directly approaching the more upmarket wedding boutiques.

Howard is particularly enthusiastic about another venture for the brand which he has just launched - a cheaper line of upmarket sunhats using fine quality straw material which he sourced at an "excellent" price from overseas.

There will be three different styles in the range in dozens of different colors and they will be priced at under $100. He has already begun selling them at the local Bondi markets on weekends.

"It's an amazing range - they're gorgeous sun hats in 30 beautiful colors, but they're also really wearable and you can throw them in the backseat of a car" he says.

"The look is a casual hat that is hand made and not mass produced yet at a mass produced price".

While their signature Hatmaker hats will be sold at the boutique he does not rule out the sunhat line eventually retailing in department or other stores.

The pair also recognise that they face the eternal dilemma of other creative people who try to run a small business.

"Keeping our ideas quite practical is an ongoing challenge" Howard admits.

Nairn points out that outsource all their paperwork, accounting and backoffice requirements because "if we were doing the books we'd be gone".

While this means they can both concentrate on the creative side they are also having to learn about the selling side as well as Howard answers the bell in the shop below.

Once sales pick up, they are keen to hire a sales assistant so they can concentrate on their first love - hatmaking.
"

Thursday, October 19, 2006

The veil of oppression

For those who are interested in this controversy...

INDEPENDENT online:

"There’s a big fuss in Britain because government minister Jack Straw said that he doesn’t feel comfortable talking to his women constituents, in his office, when they are wearing a full veil. He didn’t mean that he doesn’t like the full veil because he doesn’t like Islam. He meant that he doesn’t like conversing with people whose faces he can’t see. One person commented to the BBC: “Talking to a woman wearing a full veil is like talking to someone wearing a crash-helmet or a balaclava.”

All hell broke out, as has become the custom, now that Europeans have chosen to see extremists as being the representatives and spokesmen of Muslims in general, which they are not. Mr Straw is right, of course – nobody likes talking to people whose facial expressions they cannot see, leaving them at a loss to interpret emotions or gauge reactions. Words are only part of the conversational exchange; facial expression is the rest.

It’s the reason why it’s considered very bad manners to keep your dark glasses on when speaking to somebody else, unless you are both sitting in the blinding sun on a beach. Concealment of the face is interpreted in European culture as an act of social hostility, with strong negative significance. The person with the concealed face is seen to be up to no good, because to hide one’s face is to hide one’s identity. Historically, masking one’s face in public was permitted only during the Saturnalian excess of carnival. On other days, it could lead to one’s arrest.

Now the British Prime Minister has joined the debate, saying that the full veil “is a mark of separation, and that’s why it makes other people from outside the (Muslim) community feel uncomfortable.” Tony Blair said that it would be “going too far” to say that women don’t have the right to swathe their faces in cloth on British streets – and in this he is completely correct, given that in a free country one may wear what one pleases, as long as one’s primary and secondary sexual organs are kept covered in towns and cities. “I do think that we need to confront this issue of how to integrate people properly with our society,” Mr Blair said. “All the evidence shows that when people integrate more, they achieve more as well.” He was alluding to the failure of most Muslim immigrants to do well in Britain, educationally and financially.

Mr Blair is right about this, too. Success is dependent on complete integration into the host society. That’s why Maltese immigrants tend to do astoundingly well in Britain but less well in Australia, Canada and the USA, where they herd together and try to recreate Maltese life and mores in an alien culture. The Maltese who emigrate to England – and most of them end up there, rather than in other parts of Britain – become more English than the English. A Maltese working-class family will morph, within the space of one generation, into a Liverpudlian or Manchurian working-class family, complete with authentic accent, attitude and habits.

Higher up the social scale, the Maltese Ć©migrĆ©s will turn into something plucked from A Passage to India, reinterpreted in 21st-century clothes, clipping their vowels like the Queen and walking around like Prince Charles. Let’s not be mean to them, though, for they have discovered the truth of the ages-old recipe for successful survival: when in Rome, do as the Romans do. The saying is supposed to be a contraction of some advice given to (Saint) Augustine by (Saint) Ambrose: “Si fueris Romae, Romano vivito more; si fueris alibi, vivito sicut ibi” (when you are in Rome, live the Roman way; when you are elsewhere, live as they do there.”

This is what the historian Felipe Fernandez-Armesto has to say about Maltese emigrants to Britain, in his book Millennium: “The Maltese and Montserratian communities show the range of adaptive strategies. The tiny island of Montserrat sent more people over in the 1950s and 1960s, proportionately speaking, than any other West Indian island, driven by the collapse of the island’s sugar industry in 1952. There are fewer than 5,000 of them but they stick together. They marry each other. They settle together in spots like Long Ground in Birmingham, named after a village in Montserrat, or worship together in Pentecostal churches in Stoke Newington. They share business, form rotating credit associations, exchange visits – called “passing” – at Christmas and are tied to home by remittances and the fear of expulsion. The Maltese, by contrast – of whom there are 30,000 permanently in Britain by a common estimate – migrate singly and live dispersed. They blend into the British background – often in conscious flight from an identity besmirched by the stereotype of the vicious ponce, the evil reputation of allegedly Maltese gang leaders who practised the “unEnglish crime” of pimping in the 1950s. The difference between the Montserratians and Maltese is not to be explained by the colour of their skins. Cypriots are keen to cocoon themselves in their own culture; Ugandan Asians to forego theirs.”

Some Muslim agitators in Britain have made it loudly known that they think the resentment with which the veil is viewed by the non-Muslim British is caused by growing Islamophobia. That only shows how unfamiliar they are with the social culture of the country in which they live, which is the world’s oldest democracy, with the most ancient tradition of free speech, and one of the first to embrace the concept of the civil liberties of the individual.

Resentment against the veil, especially the full veil, has nothing to do with religion. The native British do not look askance at Sikh turbans, crucifixes worn round the necks of Roman Catholics, the beards, curls and caps of Orthodox Jews, or even the old-fashioned black gowns and headgear of nuns – even though Roman Catholicism and Papist folk have been the traditional enemy since the days of Henry VIII, and suspicion of Semites has as long a history in Britain as it does in the rest of Europe.

The reaction to the veil is hostile because the wearing of the veil is in itself perceived to be hostile. It goes against the hard-fought-for and cherished democratic principles of British society in general, but on one in particular, which is that women are not inferior to men and cannot be held in subjugation to them. This means that women cannot be dominated and ruled by their husbands, fathers, uncles or brothers. That is one of the founding principles of modern European society, and it brooks no disagreement. The law of the land takes precedence over family custom or misguided religious tradition.

The women who wear the veil, covering their face or just their hair and ears, claim that it is a matter of decency and prudence, rather than subjugation. This is something with which Western women can never agree. Women raised in a strict Muslim family in an undemocratic Islamic country don’t have the full perspective on the issues at play here. We shouldn’t be surprised. Women raised under Roman Catholic oppression in Malta in the 1940s had no proper perspective, either. To Europeans raised in secular democratic societies, the veil is seen for what it is: yet another of the worldwide, cross-cultural, pan-historical and pan-religious attempts by men to keep women under control, because of fear of what might happen if they don’t, in this instance by keeping them under wraps. As for the full veil, European women regard it with absolute horror, because it is an extreme manifestation of men’s oppression of women. The real emotion which completely swathed women engender in us is not fear of Islam, as the extremists seem to think, but pity for these creatures trapped in a system from which they cannot escape even if they want to.

The veil has nothing to do with the Koran. It is about as compulsory in Islam as the wearing of a crucifix is in Roman Catholicism. Yet it is untrue to say that women are taking it up of their own free will. People living in societies in which religion is dominant and used as a form of control are pressured into conformity. Look what happens in our own society: everybody resents duttrina classes as an imposition, but everybody conforms and sends their children along all the same, not because they believe, but because they feel they have to. It’s the same with the veil. Until fairly recently, cities in many Muslim countries were full of women in fashionable clothes, wearing make-up and with coiffed hair. Now they’re all wrapped up in veils – even if they don’t want to. It’s the pressure of society.

In the long term, it is education that will “rescue” women who live in a repressive Muslim social structure, in the same way that it rescued women who lived in an oppressive environment controlled and monitored by the Roman Catholic Church. Both religions seek to control society by first controlling women. Give Rome an inch, and we’ll be no better off than the veiled women. Thank heavens for the separation of church and state. Yet the long term will be very long, and it is almost regrettable that the rules of freedom of expression – and it is this freedom that governs the wearing of veils, and not freedom of religion – cannot be bent or broken to ban this symbol of female oppression. Curiously, it was a Muslim country – Tunisia – that had the guts to call the veil by its true name, and to have banned, since 1981, the wearing of it in public.
"

Wednesday, October 18, 2006

Such old hat: After 19 years, Bono goes to court to get his Stetson back

The joy of being in the limelight.

Belfast Telegraph:

"He is used to performing before thousands of adoring fans but U2's frontman Bono took centre stage yesterday in the hushed and solemn surroundings of Dublin's High Court.

The judge and lawyers were concerned not with his hits but with his hat, for the internationally famous singer was there to give evidence in a long-running case concerning his familiar Stetson.

Ownership of the hat is no trivial matter in the eyes of both Bono and the Lola Cashman, the former stylist who both claim ownership of the headgear. He regards it as an icon in the band's history - she claims he gave it to her.

The dispute dates back almost two decades. Last year, an Irish court found in favour of Bono but Ms Cashman has launched an appeal.

Although after 19 years the question of ownership might be viewed as old hat, the legal dispute is still going on. Ms Cashman had previously been ordered to hand back the hat and other items including trousers, a sweatshirt and hooped earrings, dating back to the band's 1987 Joshua Tree tour.

That was the outcome of a case last year when Bono, whose real name is Paul Hewson, and other band members successfully sued for the return of the material. Ms Cashman denied she had kept them without permission, maintaining they had been given to her.

Last year's hearing caused some bemusement when what some saw as a trivial issue became the subject of solemn legal proceedings. Yesterday's further legal sequel again propelled an item of rock headgear into the world of wigs and gowns.
"

Totally Frightful Issue: Victor Osborne

This article is a good read with interesting product photos.

The Totally Frightful Issue: Victor Osborne / Queerty:

"Dead animals may be a bit scary to some, but for Victor Osborne and Zach Barnett, the duo behind Victor Osborne, they’re grist for the creative mill. Drawing on an old millinery tradition, the boys incorporate every thing from fox heads to baby birds into their frightening fabrications.

Based in Brooklyn, New York, Osborne and Barnett (pictured) pride themselves on the personal touches behind their work. And, if nothing else, the professional is the personal: their space serves as factory, show room, and – tucked inconspicuously behind a wall - their home. Painted white with a black Murano chandelier, sparse window dressing, a video loop of their product, and sewing machines, it invokes an atelier more than a shop. This stylistic detail arises less from the pair’s interior decoration and more from the sentiment of the company.

Osborne, 23, says, “People look at us and they look at the hats differently once they come into the space and see us working…at the same place where they shop.” Barnett, who spends more time on the business side of the company, concurs. Discussing the allure of American Apparel’s “sweat shop” free product that is, that the t-shirts, undies, and hoodies sported everywhere by everyone, essentially come from huge warehouses, Barnett says, “[Yes] we’re also wheels in a machine, but there are only two wheels. It’s very personal. We’re trying to produce interesting shapes and styles for people, but at the same time, we’re really offering them our work.” "


Sunday, October 15, 2006

Un-Fur-gettable

The Daily Colonial - Un-Fur-gettable:

"Take a look at Karl Donoghue and his fashion-forward fur hats. British bred Donoghue has garnered celebrity clientele including Elizabeth Hurley, Kate Moss, and Victoria Beckham who soak up his fine shearlings, furs, and leather accessories. His woven rabbit fur trapper hat with pom pom ties is fun and trendy and available at www.joseph.co.uk.

With many anticipating a long winter, try Hat Attack's Quilted Rabbit Trapper. While your toes may be turning to ice in your well-heeled Mary Jane's, your head will be happy in Hat Attack's fleece-lined, trapper hat. The earflaps can be clipped up on top of the hat, but they look too cute when left down.
"

Paris hard and Paris soft

Is there a bedroom hat in the future?

globeandmail.com: Paris hard and Paris soft:

"Avant-garde designer Hussein Chalayan spoke more literally to the future, presenting clothes that, through the magic of technology, transformed before our eyes. 'I really do think these garments could be prototypes for the kinds of clothes we could be wearing in the future, where your dress could actually take on different forms,' Chalayan said backstage. A white, crystal-studded organza coat opened on its own to reveal a cream gown; a full-length white gown slowly shrank before us to become a mini; a model draped in white chiffon was eventually left naked as the fabric was slowly sucked up into her big brimmed hat."


Frocks rock in style stakes

Frocks rock in style stakes - National - theage.com.au:

"The steady stream of women in bright-coloured sundresses, hats and feathered fascinators and men in tailored suits was another sure giveaway.

Those looking for glamour found it in the fashions-on-the-field enclosure, where close to 40 racegoers competed in the Chadstone Fashion Stakes, vying for $190,000 in prizes, including a trip for two to Thailand, a $3000 diamond necklace and a Dior watch.

Among the best-dressed contestants were Nicky Neville-Jones, in black and white polka dots from Camberwell boutique Buci and a matching headpiece her boyfriend had whipped up during the week; Hayley Collins in a full-skirted blush pink sundress with black lace trimming and a tulle underlay; and Brooke Hansen in a beaded burgundy flapper-style dress and bow-trimmed hat and shoes, from Alannah Hill.

Kristie Jandric, who modelled a multi-coloured Piracy dress and towering cobalt-blue headpiece in the Caulfield Classic Style Award for professional fashion designers and milliners, was also a stand-out.

For the most part, fashions at yesterday's Age Caulfield Guineas were an elegant affair, with demure sundresses outnumbering the skimpy nightclub-style fashions that have infiltrated the track in recent years.

The dress is set to be the winning look of the season. All but two entrants in the competition (and one was a man) wore dresses. Billowing babydoll styles, often trimmed with bows, bubble dresses and strapless full-skirted styles were among the most popular looks. Traditional track favourites — white, ivory and classic combinations of black and white — were also a favourite; so, too, polka dots.

When it comes to headwear, fascinators are out and hats are back in. Wide-brimmed, floppy and picture hat styles with minimal trims were among the prettiest.

'Hats are definitely back,' declared Melbourne milliner Melissa Jackson. 'Even in my orders for the carnival, hats are definitely up on fascinators and headbands. I think people are just a bit over the fascinator.'
"

Brain waves enable paralysed patients to communicate via PCs

Some interesting information about headgear, technology and medicine.

European Design Engineer : Brain waves enable paralysed patients to communicate via PCs:

"Cambridge Consultants is helping Dr Wolpaw’s group transform its research-based system, with its inherently technically demanding interface, into a system suitable for daily use by non-scientists. One of the challenges was to develop a sensor cap that is comfortable enough for extended wear, yet allows anuntrained carer to position the sensors accurately on the user’s head. Positioning deviations from session to session of more than a few millimetres can dramatically affect the accuracy of the system. To minimise the affect of any positional changes, ‘smart’ software learns the accuracy of the response from the user and applies different weightings to the signals received from the sensors.

Cambridge Consultants pursued several alternative sensor cap designs to make them more ergonomically comfortable for extended wear and to provide a less obtrusive appearance, without sacrificing repeatability, precision of sensor placement or signal reception. Early sensor cap designs were based on those used for EEG (electroencephalogram) recording, but these use tension to ensure the sensors are held in close contact with the scalp. As such, they are only suitable for wearing for up to two hours, which is inadequate for the BCI application that calls for a cap that can be worn for 10hours or more.

Alternative cap designs were proposed that used concepts borrowed from surgeons’ caps (that might typically be equipped with lights and other devices) and sleep apnoea headgear that is worn all night. Several iterations of cap design were required, as there was a fine balance to be struck between comfort and a snug fit. Any movement of the cap not only results in inaccurate sensor positioning, but the movement itself causes electrical noise (due to static charges) that is significantly greater than the microvolt brain activity signals.

Finally the team established that the best material to use was a compressed open-cell foam that is the same as that used for footbeds in shoes.
"

Teenager plays Space Invaders with only his brain

Headgear of the future will do more than just play games, don't you think?

Teenager plays Space Invaders with only his brain - Engadget:

"While having a robotic assistant play video games for you might sound novel, it's certainly not as thrilling as interacting with the 1s and 0s yourself. A team of researchers, engineers, and students at Washington University in St. Louis have crafted a brain-computer interface system that allowed a 14-year old gamer suffering from epilepsy to cruise through the first two levels of Space Invaders using only his imagination. Rather than picking up an Xbox 360 and perusing through the Xbox Live Arcade, the crew went back to their roots and programmed an Atari 2600 to interface with the brain-sensing apparatus. The headgear boasted a grid of sensors that monitored 'electrocorticographic activity' from the brain's surface to detect signals based on thought processes that were going on. By calibrating his thoughts with video game triggers, the teenager was able to learn the ropes 'almost instantaneously,' and had no qualms demolishing the competition while twiddling his thumbs. The group plans to use this successful experiment to further understand the mysterious signals of the mind and give physically disabled individuals a chance to show of their mental sharpness, but we're hoping to see this thing bundled in with the sure-to-be-delayed PlayStation 8 that should hit shelves sometime before 2040 2050."


Halloween party is a great way to meet neighbors

Interesting snippet from this article of Halloween suggestions.

QCTimes.com / Features / Halloween party is a great way to meet neighbors:

"If you don’t have any trick-or-treaters in your house, host a Hat-o-ween party. A customer of mine told me she and her friends wanted to throw a masquerade party for Halloween, but they couldn’t get their husbands to wear costumes. The men would, however, don a baseball cap or a cowboy hat. Thus, the Hat-o-ween party was born. Every year, the bash gets bigger and guests become more creative with their crazy headgear.
"

Monday, October 09, 2006

Sleek whites, giant hats at John Galliano show

See the picture. Giant showbiz hat; an extreme that will be ignored.

Sleek whites, giant hats at John Galliano show:

"By Anna Willard

PARIS (Reuters) - Designer John Galliano opened his spring/summer 2007 ready-to-wear collection on Saturday with sleek white suits and ended with swish evening gowns under enormous wire hats.

His show, in an old indoor market that is now used as tennis courts, was a hit with the star-packed audience.
Actress Demi Moore showed up with partner Ashton Kutcher and sat in the same row as singers Janet Jackson and Lenny Kravitz.

'I loved it, I thought it was beautiful,' Jackson said after watching the models with fringes or partly backcombed hair and thick painted eyebrows.

Rachel Zoe, a celebrity stylist who is behind the looks of actress Lindsay Lohan and Nicole Richie said: 'I thought it was so good.'

Galliano, who is also the designer for the LVMH-owned Christian Dior, started with a white jacket with big shoulders and a wide collar over a slim fitting skirt. He moved on to a colourful selection of short dresses ending with glamorous, long gowns set off with oversized hats.

The final outfit was pale blue with discs and swirls in shiny gold embroidery with a huge black and blue foam circles arranged on wires around the head.

AFRICAN DESERT

Earlier in the day, Kenzo designer Antonio Marras dazzled guests with bright colours set against an African desert which he said was a nod to tensions between cultures.

His models paraded vivid pinks and greens and African-style headgear down a runway covered with sand in an underground room in the Louvre art museum.
"

Sunday, October 08, 2006

The Sport of Kings

See the great hat pictures before their gone!

The Electric New Paper, Singapore - The Electric New Paper News:

"IT is called the Sport of Kings.
So it's no wonder that the 'crown' is considered the most important aspect of your attire when you turn up for horse-racing events.

In Melbourne yesterday, hat designers topped off crowning glories with gems of headwear in a fashion show as part of the Spring Racing Carnival, which runs up to the prestigious Melbourne Cup in November.

Called The Millinery Collection 2006, it showcased more 100 different hats from Australia's leading milliners, including one that is worth A$1 million ($1.2m).

Designed by milliner Serena Lindeman, the bejewelled hat (left) features 130 carats worth of diamonds, 70 carats of precious coloured gemstones, and white and gold South Sea pearls of various sizes.

Other hats, though not as extravagant, were just as unique with adornments such as giant feathers, fake butterflies and even a high-heel shoe.

This year is also the first time that hat designers will be recognised with an award during the carnival's Fashion on the Field competition.

Some designers believe that for this year, the trend will be towards bigger headgear.

''Everybody wants something bigger this year to stand out and they are spending an average of $300 for a hat,' designer Molly Kasriel told the Sydney Morning Herald recently.

Others, like couture milliner Phillip Rhodes, predict that small, but exquisitely crafted hats will rule.

'People have moved on from that big fluffy feathered look that held the floor for a couple of years,' he said.

'They are probably looking for something a bit calmer in black and white or natural.'
"

Flower power is back

Flower power is back | The Daily Telegraph: "Article from: The Daily Telegraph

"IT'S not a look for wall flowers, but Paris Fashion Week designers went bold with blooms yesterday.

A Hawaii-inspired suit, by French designer Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, may reference one of Australia's classic surf brands, Okanui, but it's unlikely to catch on with surfer types - ditto, the matching teddy bear.

It was a graphic statement by de Castelbajac, who has a reputation for going big while his Parisian peers opt for conservative chic.

Still, this catwalk season, leading designers including John Galliano and Alexander McQueen have taken the spring theme to heart.

Galliano's extravagant collection was a highlight for those looking for inspiration for Melbourne Cup hats.

Opening with a classic selection of white suits, he kept his grand statements for the finale.

But his gowns in heavy, embroidered satin were almost overshadowed by a series of stunning mesh hats.

The collaboration with London milliner Stephen Jones featured big blooms and towering feathered plumes.

Earlier at Yves Saint Laurent, Stefano Pilati made his own floral statement by laying a fresh lawn of violets along his catwalk.

While it made for pretty pictures and set off his collection of purple chiffon dresses beautifully, the turf proved difficult for the models to walk on in towering heels.

Alexander McQueen also featured full-blown hats on his catwalk, in a moment of pure theatre from the British designer.

Many of his powdered models paired high-crowned bowler hats or turban-like crushed silk headpieces.

Australian designer Martin Grant's collection was extraordinarily subdued by comparison.

The Paris-based Melbournian showed a classic collection of separates, featuring skirts cut high on the thigh and satin blouses."