Saturday, September 30, 2006

All in the head?

All in the head?:

"Is fashion all in a hat, or more specifically in the elusive, enticing turban, the No. 1 accessory in Milan’s Spring/Summer 2007 preview?

“Turbans are easy, quick and powerful,’’ said Miuccia Prada backstage, after her much applauded collection presented on Tuesday. Earlier, Giorgio Armani said he used the turban to underline femininity, while Dolce&Gabbana outfitted their club girls with turban shaped headbands.

According to Miuccia, the Prada woman needs power to don her new clothes, which, like her headgear, are enigmatic rather than energetic.

“There are no complicated thoughts this round,’’ said the designer famous for her cerebral fashion. “This time it’s just about fashion and making it more important.’’

Giorgio Armani, for one, was in a very good mood: “This is a very good moment in my life,’’ the designer said after his much applauded signature show, which harked back to his elegant look with a hint of androgyny that secured a place for Milan on the international fashion map some 30 years ago.

Dubbed “easy chic,’’ Monday’s signature collection revisits some Armani favorites such as simple fluid trousers in ultra soft fabric paired with feminine jackets in Armani staple shades of beige and pink. Nighttime at Armani is in elegant black, with sumptuous gowns caressing the body but never grabbing it. Demure silk berets or hats with brims worked like lace completed the romantic look. "


Friday, September 29, 2006

Summer Fashion From Italy is Sizzling

OUTINAMERICA.COM - SUMMER FASHION FROM ITALY IS SIZZLING:

"MILAN, Italy (AP) - Fashion followers got a wet welcome to Milan as chilly temperatures and persistent rainfall marked the opening day of the weeklong preview showings for spring-summer 2007.

But on the catwalk, dampened spirits were uplifted by the promise of hot and happy styles for next year's warm weather seasons.

Giorgio Armani, for one, is in a very good mood.

'This is a very good moment in my life,' the designer said after his much applauded signature show, which harked back to his elegant look with a hint of androgyny that secured a place for Milan on the international fashion map some 30 years ago.

Leonardo DiCaprio was one of the front row guests at the Monday afternoon show in the ultramodern Armani headquarters.

Armani is just back from a whirlwind tour in London last week where he opened an Armani Casa housewares store and orchestrated a gala charity event to combat AIDS in Africa.

On hand to help with the cause were Armani fans such as DiCaprio, Ashley Judd and Alicia Keys. The fashion highlight of his London trip was the presentation of his second line Emporio collection for next summer, which will not be shown in Milan.

Dubbed 'easy chic,' Monday's signature collection revisits some Armani favorites such as simple fluid trousers in ultrasoft fabric paired with feminine jackets in Armani staple shades of beige and pink. A pert mannish fedora, demure silk shawl and flat footwear add androgynous mystery.

Nighttime at Armani is in elegant black, with sumptuous gowns caressing the body but never grabbing it. Demure silk berets or hats with brims worked like lace complete the romantic look.

'Vintage is very popular these days, so I reinvented my own 'oldies but goodies,'' the designer said.
"

Why millinery is no longer old hat

Independent Online Edition > Careers Advice:

"Ladies' Day at Ascot has long been a showcase for the artistry of the milliner, and each year, the hats worn provoke almost as much excitement as the races their wearers are there to watch. But who is it that thinks up these fantastic creations?

Janie Lashford studied millinery at London College of Fashion when there were hardly any courses on the subject in the country. She was working in costume and props for film and theatre at the time, and realised that hats were a very important part of her work. In 2002, she set up her own school, Janie Lashford's School of Millinery, in Worcestershire. She runs courses of two to four days, in groups or individually, and has also started to offer City & Guilds training.

'Millinery is halfway between craft and fashion,' she says. 'Some people come on my courses because they love hats; some because they want a career in hat-making; and some just want to learn an old skill.' But for Lashford, it's not a dying art. 'Hats create a sensation wherever you go. You don't get forgotten in a hat. There will always be a need for hats.'

Rebecca Noden made a radical career switch to become a milliner. She was working as a recruitment manager for Arthur Andersen during the Enron crisis. She says, 'The whole process took several months, and during the Deloitte & Touche takeover there was very little work to be done. So a friend and I decided we needed to do something to make it more interesting again.'

Her friend did a silversmithing course and Noden applied for a millinery course at the London College of Fashion. 'From the first class, I was hooked,' she enthuses. 'I remember walking to the Tube station to go home, a huge grin on my face, telephoning my boyfriend and my family to say how excited I was about it all. I signed up for the next nine-week course after my second week.'

When the company eventually went down, as part of her compensation package she negotiated that it would pay for the third course she was taking and also a business course aimed at the fashion sector. She used the money to move out of London to Wiltshire and set herself up in business.

Noden also believes that millinery is very much alive and kicking. "It is certainly a changing art, and the old methods, although still there in essence, are being added thanks to innovations in technology and materials. There are more millinery classes and courses being run than ever, and the hat, in its various guises, has come back into the fold of high fashion, as well as being increasingly present in street fashion."

For Noden, we are "at heart, a nation of quiet exhibitionists, and the hat is the perfect expression of this". But she warns that "something like three-quarters of new fashion businesses go under in their first year. Be realistic - not everyone can have catwalk shows and a global empire".

The opportunities are there if you look, she says. "There are so many courses these days that I would definitely advise anyone thinking of a career change to take an evening class as a taster. Try to back it up with a business course. If you can't balance the books, your designs are irrelevant."

She also stresses the importance of asking for help: "Don't be proud - knock on doors until your knuckles hurt! Take any work experience, and don't be scared. If people shut the door in your face before they've even seen your work, it is no reflection on you or what you do. It's just not for them at that moment.""


Tuesday, September 26, 2006

Study Challenges Widely-held Notions About Islamic Headscarf

Study Challenges Widely-held Notions About Islamic Headscarf | Germany | Deutsche Welle | 25.09.2006:

"The headscarf is widely regarded in German society as a religious or political symbol that stands for the suppression of women or Muslim fundamentalism. A new emale suppression, a badge of sexual inhibition as well as a protest against Western cultural and moral decadence.

For those who thought they knew everything there is to why certain Muslim women opt to cover their hair, a study published in Germany last week is likely to give them some food for thought.

Called 'The Headscarf -- Unveiling of a Symbol?' and conducted by the Konrad Adenauer Foundation, the study polled 135 religious women of Turkish origin between the ages of 18 and 40 in various conservative and liberal Muslim communities across Germany. The interviews were conducted by bilingual volunteers.

'Our aim was to gain access to how such women think and find answers to the question of what the headscarf means for the women who wear it,' said Christoph Kannengiesser, the deputy secretary general of the foundation, which has close links to the conservative Christian Democratic Union political party.

Far from being suppressed and intimidated

Some 97 percent of the women polled said they wear the headscarf for religious reasons. For most, the decision to don a headscarf is personal and one that -- contrary to widespread perception -- is hardly influenced by the father, brother or husband. Instead, female role models within the family played a larger role in the decision, according to the study.

Nine out of 10 women said the headscarf gave them self-confidence -- a point that the authors of the study say is "needed" because more than half the women feel discriminated against on account of their headgear at the work place or during a job search. Half of Germany's 16 federal states have already banned the wearing of a headscarf in public buildings and while performing state jobs.

However, 85 percent of those polled said they were friends with women who didn't wear headscarves.

More importantly, for a society which to a great extent believes the headscarf to be an instrument of suppression and those women who wear it to be uneducated, most of the Turkish women said that it was "feeling like a free person" was more important than marriage and home.

On questions of financial independence, male partners and children, most of those polled displayed attitudes similar to German women.

Irrespective of whether they had German citizenship, 90 percent said they are in favor of a democratically elected government.

An ambivalent picture

However, there were big differences when it came to matters of faith. Some 32 percent said they believed that Islam was superior to other religions. Most of the headscarf-wearing women said they did not feel at home in Germany. About 71 percent said they felt more affinity with Turkey, while 80 percent said Turks in Germany are treated like second-class citizens.
"

Helmets cut risk of head injuries in skiing

DenverPost.com - Study: Helmets cut risk of head injuries in skiing:

"Chicago - Helmets greatly reduce the risk of head injuries among skiers and snowboarders, Norwegian researchers found, dispelling fears that protective headgear would only make people more reckless on the slopes.

Researchers hope their study, along with helmet-clad Olympic athletes like Shaun 'The Flying Tomato' White, will lead to greater use of headgear.

'Do as the Olympians do,' said study co-author Dr. Roald Bahr of the Norwegian School of Sports Sciences in Oslo. 'Wear a helmet, even if you're not an elite skier or snowboarder - especially if you're not.'

Some critics argue helmets may lead to accidents by giving daredevil skiers a false sense of security or cause more neck injuries because of the weight of the headgear.

The study found that while risk takers were more likely to wear helmets, helmet wearers overall were 60 percent less likely to suffer head injuries.

It also found a lower risk of neck injuries with helmet wear, but that finding was not statistically significant, meaning it could have been due to chance.

The study looked at data on more than 6,000 skiers and snowboarders at eight Norwegian ski resorts during the 2002 winter season. It appears in today's Journal of the American Medical Association.

With about 39 fatalities a year, skiing and snowboarding are safer than bicycling or swimming, which have higher death rates, according to the National Ski Areas Association, a trade group.

Helmet use is increasing, the group said, with one-third of skiers and snowboarders surveyed last season wearing helmets.
"

Munna Bhai and his "Gandhigiri" capture

The Hindu : Front Page : Munna Bhai and his "Gandhigiri" capture:

"LUCKNOW: Thanks to the brand new wave of 'Gandhigiri' unleashed by the much talked about Bollywood hit 'Lage Raho Munna Bhai', the elusive Gandhi 'topi' is back in the reckoning here in a big way as non-violent protests sweep the streets of Lucknow.

The Gandhi cap made of pure home-spun khadi, once the traditional headgear of Gandhiites and freedom fighters, had virtually vanished from the scene for long what with fast changing fashion trends, only to make a ritualistic appearance on Gandhi Jayanti Day and at Congress Party conventions. But now with home grown Munna Bhais fast taking to the Gandhian methods of dissent, the Gandhi cap has re-emerged as the popular new symbol of non-violent protest.

In recent days Lucknow has emerged as the epicentre of 'Gandhigiri' in Uttar Pradesh. Since this unique form of protest spilt over to the streets, the Gandhi Ashram outlets in the city have recorded a sharp jump in the sale of Gandhi caps. Harbans Rai, Manager of Gandhi Ashram in the posh Hazratganj area here, says that on an average 60 to 70 caps are bought up daily, mostly by young men.

Windfall expected

With another Gandhi Jayanti on October 2 round the corner and 'Lage Raho Munna Bhai' firing the imagination of the young in and out of cinema halls, the Gandhi Ashram management is expecting a real windfall. The caps are moderately priced at Rs.30 apiece. After a 10 per cent rebate they are available at Rs.27 apiece.

In the past one week, real-life practitioners of 'Gandhigiri' sporting Gandhi caps and carrying roses have registered their protests at King George's Medical University and picketed a liquor shop situated near a temple in a residential locality. These new converts have even avoided ugly situations like the one created by some remarks about Mahatma Gandhi purportedly made by a district official here on Monday while refusing permission for a religious gathering.

Students of Lucknow University also registered a non-violent protest against the Lyngdoh Committee's recommendations relating to student politics and student union election reforms by moving in a peaceful procession to Hazratganj.

Explains Gandhian R. N. Mishra, 'The Gandhi cap had gone out of circulation but its importance had not receded. The recent non-violent protests by the youth have reinforced the moral courage that had been inculcated by the Father of the Nation during the freedom struggle. There was a strong message in the protests: Gandhi is still relevant even in today's world.'
"

More than a head covering

More than a head covering:

"A good hat makes people different. French designer Sylvie Laroche's first retrospective of her haute couture hats has greatly challenged and expanded Shanghai people's vision of these adornments for the head.

The Laroche show on Thursday night also marked the opening of 'Shanghai Trends,' an exposition designed to showcase international luxury retailing trends, currently running at the Shanghai Exhibition Center.

But those hats stole the show. The models, all dressed in the same little black dresses, looked different from each other, thanks to those beautiful hats. All materials imaginable can be found, including wool, velvet, straw, linen, fur, pearls, gems, as well as all kinds of feathers and even a disc.

This time, the designer brought 47 hats, some of them requiring more than 140 hours to make.

'People can find hats for any occasion: to the theater, to a cocktail party, to a wedding ...' says the elegant French lady who started to design hats when she was 12. 'Some of them might not suit ordinary people's wardrobes, but they have had a great impact on fashion trends.'

Laroche has been collaborating with the world's giants of haute couture, including Christian Dior and Yves Saint Laurent. The petit woman has been preparing for the Shanghai show - her first retrospective in the world - for more than half a year.

For Laroche, hats are like her babies. She won't go out without a hat. 'I can't walk on the street without a hat,' she says with a smile.

The 47 hats, together with other exhibits in the three-day event, are on display at the Shanghai Exhibition Center through tomorrow.

"

Successful Launch for Fashion Newcomer Lexy Lu Designs

See the pictures of the hats.

Successful Launch for Fashion Newcomer Lexy Lu Designs:

"In the eight months since Lexy Lu Designs’ January 2006 debut, boutiques in almost twenty states have placed orders for the company’s colorful ribbon hats, and the list is growing. For a small company that has yet to celebrate its first anniversary, the success is astounding.

Lexy Lu Designs specializes in handmade fleece hats with colorful grosgrain ribbon tops. The hats come in many different styles, pairing hip colors such as: hot pink and lime, pink and chocolate, blue and chocolate, and traditional toiles. There is something for everyone, including a dinosaur ribbon for boys. These festive colors will help warm up cold winter days while making children easier to spot on a busy playground.

The company has been busy developing and introducing the new line. The hard work has paid off since Lexy Lu Designs has already exceeded its 2006 sales goals. “It’s been a whirlwind of fun introducing the line,” says Lexy Lu owner and designer Christi Smethurst. “The hats are selling themselves. Retailers are having trouble keeping them stocked and started re-ordering in August. When winter hats are flying off the shelves in the summer heat, I know I am not the only one thinking these hats are adorable.”

Because the hats are handmade, each is unique. Customers say they can’t decide which one to buy. “When you try to pick just one hat, the different colors combinations make it hard to decide. They are all cute! Sometimes customers end up selecting 2 or 3 styles per child,” says Smethurst.

The affordable pricing may also be what makes multiple purchases so common. Smethurst said, “When designing the hat I wanted something that said ‘Buy Me’ but was reasonably priced. I want people to focus on the hat, not the price tag.”

Lexy Lu Designs is enjoying their warm welcome to the children’s fashion scene and as Smethurst says, “looking forward to cooler weather.”"


Sunday, September 24, 2006

Passing the hat for historic preservation

MercuryNews.com | 09/23/2006 | Passing the hat for historic preservation:

"Whether fashioned from felt, fur or feathers, hats are evocative of elegance and glamour. And not just from a bygone era. While many of us no longer don a hat, others still do. And lots of folks collect them. So anyone lusting for a vintage toque or two will be glad to know about the Fabulous Hat Party hosted by the Preservation Action Council of San Jose on Oct. 1. More than 120 men's and women's hats from the 1940s, '50s, '60s and '70s will be sold to support the council's efforts in preserving the architectural history of San Jose.

Several in the remarkable group -- donated by an ``anonymous Saratoga socialite'' -- were designed by the likes of Adolpho, Dior and Schiaparelli. Some were sold by the luxury department store I. Magnin and the famed San Jose emporium Bon Ton Millinery.

Many of the hats have been priced starting at $10, but 15 of the most splendid examples will be sold via silent auction. You'll also find new and old hat boxes, ostrich feathers, handpainted hat flowers, Victorian dresses, boots, gloves and undergarments for purchase.

Since this dispersal has been organized by folks dedicated to preserving the past, all goods have been treated with extra care. In fact, guests will be given a pair of white gloves -- the type used by museum curators or appraisers on the PBS series ``Antiques Roadshow'' -- to wear while handling and inspecting the hats.

The Fabulous Hat Party will be held at the Field Family Victorian home in the heart of San Jose's newly designated Reed Historic District. The Queen Anne-style residence at 523 S. Sixth St. is the property of Walter and Sandra Soellner. Painted in six colors, the house features architectural elements such as fish-scale shingles, spindles and a veranda.

The party takes place from 2 to 5 p.m. Admission: $10 for council members, $15 for non-members. Reservations required. To order tickets, call (408) 998-8105, or check www.preservation.org. Check out the Web site to preview the hats. Visitors will be served light refreshments in the garden. Ample free street parking is available."


Turbans on the decrease?

H�rriyet - Turbans on the decrease?:

"The proportion of people in Turkey who wear turbans has fallen from 13 to 11% according to a study commissioned by the Turkish Economic and Social Studies Foundation, or TESEV, which will be published in November.

Other findings were equally intriguing. The proportion of women who wear headscarves also declined since 1999 when the study began, from 73 to 63%. The percentage of women who wear burqas also declined over that period according to the study, from 3.5 to 1%.



The survey asked, “Is it a problem that turban-wearers should not be admitted into universities?” A majority of survey-takers answered “Yes”. "


Friday, September 22, 2006

Make your white T-Shirt happy again

LuminoMagazine.com - Make your white T-Shirt happy again:

"5. Hats - Now, not all hats are okay for everyone to wear. The thing is that hats do in general add a certain personality to an outfit. Modern trilbies are my personal favorite and look sexy on men or women. Note though I am not advocating baseball caps or trucker hats as ways to spice up an outfit. Both are rather casual and trucker hats have seen their season."


It's hats off to spring fashion

EADT - It's hats off to spring fashion:

"Hats and hoods adorned the heads of the super skinny models at this week's London Fashion Week meaning only one thing - if you want to get ahead on the high street get some headgear. Fashion writer Katy Evans reports.

SPRING and summer is the time of year when, traditionally, we look to lighten up our attire and put those warm winter accessories - such as gloves and scarves - to the back of the closet for next year.

But on the runways at London Fashion Week it was hats that stole the show, usurping bags as the most prominent accessories for next season. And not just normal hats. In fact, the more elaborate and eye-catching (or eye-poking out in some cases) the better.

Monday got off to a flying start with Manish Arora's exotic birds of paradise-inspired collection, which saw models with colourful butterflies stuck to their eyes and lips, and one enormous head-piece adorned by a bright yellow toucan (well yellow is in now, you know).

Zandra Rhodes also went with the bird-theme by plonking a huge plumage on the head of six-footer Marks and Spencer model Erin O'Connor.

Basso and Brooke created a real stage show on Tuesday evening with their bright, oriental and 20s-inspired collection featuring hats such as this water lily creation, which could double as a pretty pond accessory.

More 'real life' but still ridiculous was the sighting of riding hats at Balenciaga - great news for all keepers of horses who can, if they so choose to, stride out into everyday life wearing their black head protectors, safe in the knowledge they are now the height of fashion.

Jasper Conran sent models down his striped-background runway in a plethora of headgear from neat and tidy trilbies to wide, satellite-style straw varieties.

Conran was also one of the leading advocates of, get ready for it … the hood. Yes that's right, hoodies - just like all other components of popular 'street' culture, from mod style to punk - have been hijacked by haute couture and will soon be seen sported, no doubt, by a string of celebrities.

But these hoods are a far cry from the cheap chav tracksuit variety. Conran's hoods harked back to Kylie's Can't Get You Out Of My Head video - the one where men and women alike admired Ms Minogue's physique as she writhed around in a white, hooded one-piece, slashed saucily from collar bone to navel and from hip to ankle.

Conran's white, hooded draw-string top seen here is probably quite practical for those pesky April showers, but as for the matching 'nappy' - perhaps not.

More hoods were seen at Wednesday's c.neeon show, and also in on the act was designer Ashish, whose distressed denim outfit with built-in hood-cum-baseball cap was on show on Monday (strange black made-up marks optional).

Another take on the baseball cap was seen at Emma Cook, whose feminised, ruched versions may appeal to the slightly less adventurous.

Sixties fashion house Biba brought the headband back into fashion (great news for long-haired lovelies who suffer from 'hair sticking to face' syndrome when out partying), and, by contrast, showed enormous wide-brimmed hats - perfect for shading out the sun's rays.

John Rocha showed crocheted hats that seemed more suited to winter, as did Betty Jackson, and Peter Jensen used exotic blooms to create a flowery take on the Princess Leia look.

But for downright outrageousness, my hat goes off to Gareth Pugh. The designer du jour, lauded by none other than Ms Wintour (she attended his show last season), sent out models in monochrome, rubber gimp/sci-fi-inspired outfits, all of which completely covered their faces and none of which, I dare say, will be seen out in the real world on a warm spring/summer day. Highly ridiculous, highly impractical, but then London Fashion Week has built a reputation for creative craziness and long may it be so, if only to provide a little light-hearted entertainment on a Friday morning in September.


Thursday, September 21, 2006

Might bicycle helmets put drivers too at ease?

Might bicycle helmets put drivers too at ease? - Health & Science - International Herald Tribune:

"A British study suggests that at least in some situations, bicycling with a helmet may be more dangerous than going without.

Dr. Ian Walker, a professor of psychology at the University of Bath, was his own subject in a study that measured how closely cars drove to bicycles they passed on the road.

Walker, using a bicycle fitted with a concealed video camera and ultrasonic sensor, measured his distance from cars as they passed by his bicycle. He rode with and without a helmet, and with and without a wig that made him look like a woman. He covered more than 300 kilometers, or about 200 miles, at various times of day and made more than 2,500 observations. The study is to appear in a future issue of Accident Analysis and Prevention.

Walker found that cars consistently passed closer when he was wearing a helmet than when he was bareheaded, that trucks passed closer than cars, and that drivers passed closer to him without the wig than when they thought he was a woman.

But Walker warned against abandoning headgear. Even the most skilled bike riders, he said, couldn't "stop a gust of wind knocking them sideways, or a pedestrian stepping out in front of them."
"

2 in a row for fashion entries

The Border Mail - 2 in a row for fashion entries:

"Wagga student Amanda Bagley’s winning accessory was a last-minute creation.

She began her winning hat on Friday pushing the limit of design to have it ready in time.

The banana fibre and silk creation was formed over a wooden mould and was sculpted to hug the model’s face.

“I thought of the design at the last minute but I have wanted to do something like this for a while,” she said.

“This is the second year in a row that I have won and I was really surprised.

“I am presently studying business as I have always wanted to have my own fashion business.

“I plan on moving to Melbourne to start a millinery business when I finish my studies.”"


Fascinating headpiece

Don't miss the photo!

The Border Mail - Fascinating headpiece:

"SCULPTURED headpieces in colours ranging from the palest pinks to the brightest blues will be worn by the most fashionable fillies at this year’s spring racing carnival at Flemington racecourse.

Albury milliners Elizabeth Hemsley and Delphine Nicholson, who each have their own millinery label, say the fashion forecast this Mel-bourne Cup Carnival is all about the headpiece.

“Headpieces have a more structured finish than fascinators,” Ms Nicholson said.

“Instead of just a feather in the hair or a flower, this year it’s about wearing a sculptured piece that makes a statement.”

Feathers and flowers on thick Alice-bands and intricately crafted cinnamene pieces that cover the whole head are selling faster than sprinting thoroughbreds at the Red Frogs and Tall Poppies boutique.

Ms Hemsley said now is the ideal time for racegoers heading to Flemington in November to start piecing together their outfits.

“Both Delphine and I make one-off pieces and getting in early certainly gives you the best chance of achieving a really individual look and avoiding seeing multiple versions of your outfit at the track,” she said.

Both milliners have studied European trends to keep their fingers on the fashion pulse and say the popularity of the headpiece is largely due to its ability to suit all ages.

But wide-brimmed straw sun-hats and floppy beach-style hats are expected to be popular trackside items on the heads of younger race-goers."


Stitch by stitch, time ticks away memories

At age 93, Marie Morti is a fine example of dedication to her community.

JS Online:Stitch by stitch, time ticks away memories:

"Where she likes to sit is in a blue upholstered rocker across from the couch. Beside the chair is a small table, and on the table is a basket, and in the basket are skeins of yarn, white, yellow, pink and blue.

Mortl sits in the blue chair and knits. Sometimes she turns on the television and knits while she watches the news or 'Wheel of Fortune,' but most of the time, the television is off and Mortl knits in quiet.

'Then I don't think,' she says. 'I count my stitches.'

'There is nothing good to remember.'

Mostly, Mortl knits the same things. Over and over. For 20 years, she has been knitting them: caps for the babies born at St. Joseph hospital.

She says she couldn't begin to guess how many caps she's made over the years. Every couple of months, she walks over to St. Joe's, which is a couple of blocks from her house, and drops off a bag of maybe 50 caps.

Only once has she gone up to the nursery to look at the babies wearing her caps.

But often, when she is dropping off her hats, she sees parents holding their babies in the hospital hallways. Other people knit caps for St. Joe's, but Mortl likes to think that when she sees a baby wearing a cap - a newborn tucked in its mother's arms, its head not yet filled with things to forget - it is one of the caps that she has made.

She never approaches parents and their babies. But it's nice to see them.

And then she walks home with fresh skeins of yarn, white, yellow, pink and blue.

She sits in her chair, television on or off, and makes more caps, for surely more babies will be born and surely more caps will needed.

Mortl says she will continue to make caps until her hands give out and she can't make them anymore, though she's been making them for a long time now, and she can't imagine what else she would do to kill time.
"

USA : Pre-Columbian Textile Workshop from January 10-19, 2007

USA : Pre-Columbian Textile Workshop from January 10-19, 2007 - Textile Fashion News Fibre2Fashion:

"Museum Textile Services is pleased to announce that its 2007 Pre-Columbian Textile Workshop will take place from January 10-19 in Lima and Trujillo, Peru.

This hands-on conservation course is geared toward students, professionals, and others with museum sensibilities and good sewing skills who want to learn about textile conservation and pre-Columbian cultures while visiting the amazing country of Peru.

The goals of the 2007 course are to document, conserve, and mount pre-Columbian hats, caps, and other head gear from the site of Huaca Malena.

The beginning of the course will consist of a three-day excursion to Trujillo, Chan Chan, and Huaca de la Luna in the North of Peru.

The class will then return to Lima for a weekend of instructional museum visits, including Pachacamac and Huaca Malena.

A full week of hands-on conservation classes will follow. Our classroom space will be donated by the Yachay Wasi Institute of Conservation and Restoration.

The workshop is limited to eight non-Peruvian students and four Peruvians.

Southern Illinois University Edwardsville
"

Sunday, September 17, 2006

Millinery mantras

Millinery mantras | Jerusalem Post:

"Hats are conceived as a functional item of clothing, worn to protect a person from the cold, rain, sun and wind. But they are often also used on religious grounds, for social standing, or purely as decoration. In some cultures, a head covering is rule of law.

Berets, turbans, keffiyot, helmets, boaters and Easter Parade finery - not to mention the once omnipresent Israeli kova tembel - hats and headgear for both men and women reflect community, status and/or personal taste.

To sharpen the focus, the Seamgallery, a gallery dedicated to fiber art, is presenting an attractive exhibition entitled Head Covering, a display of photographs and actual samples in a variety of techniques and materials by 16 artists. The show was curated by Sima Sela. Until October 14."


How the success of a very stylish woman changed race day rules

How the success of a very stylish woman changed race day rules - Fashion:

"Lamia Rockwell's keen sense of style has rewritten the rule book for the prestigious race-day fashions on the field competitions.

The Australian Jockey Club has changed the rules to stop Sydney's so-called "serial entrants", including Rose Bay maths teacher Mrs Rockwell, from winning an event twice in a year.

Effective from tomorrow the AJC will stipulate that the winners of best-dressed male and female and the millinery award will be ineligible to win in the same category the next season.

That means the winners during the Easter carnival cannot win during the spring carnival.

The new rules will be posted on the AJC website.

The AJC holds Fashions on the Field on Derby Day and Sydney Cup Day at Easter and Epsom Day in October.

Prizes in the Epsom Day competition include return business-class tickets to Bangkok.

Mrs Rockwell has an impressive list of wins to her name - first in Fashions on the Field on Derby Day the past two years running, runner-up in the Sydney Cup 2005, finalist on Doncaster Day 2005 and finalist in Flemington's Derby Day competition last year.

'This is all about encouraging other people to enter,' said Amanda Longmuir, event manager for the AJC Fashions on the Field.

At Derby Day this year at Randwick there were four previous winners or placegetters in the women's finalists.

Women go to extraordinary lengths to take the coveted titles.

'I haven't seen any tears or tantrums myself [but] I understand that it has happened when someone doesn't win,' Miss Longmuir said.

'These girls plan what they are going to wear for months and months.

'We have to watch them when they line up for the heats. We put them in groups of 15 and only two or three are selected from each group.

'They look at who else is in their group and if they think the other girls look better than them they try and sneak back into a different group to give themselves a better chance.'

Mrs Rockwell said she had become well known on the competition circuit because of her success.

'I just enter because I love fashion and I didn't even think I would win this year at Derby Day,' she said.

The Derby Day victory win was a controversial one. The day was sponsored by David Jones, and Mrs Rock- well took out first prize in a black and white hound's-tooth jacket, the signature logo of the retailer.

'She was being very cheeky by wearing that,' Miss Longmuir said.

'A couple of people did think it was rigged, but it certainly wasn't. She won fair and square.'

Luckily for all the hopefuls out there, Mrs Rockwell will not be competing on Epsom Day because her sister is getting married that day.

'I am shattered, so devastated I can't enter,' she said.

But so keen is she to win something this spring, she will try her luck in Melbourne in November.

"

Fashion fans go to bat for hats

Tahlequah Daily Press - Fashion fans go to bat for hats:

"Whether it’s a ballcap, a fedora, or pillbox, area residents love hats, and September is National Hat Month.

Teddye Snell
Tahlequah Daily Press
TAHLEQUAH —

It’s been said that if you want to get ahead, wear a hat.
In this day and age, a woman wearing a hat may not get a promotion, but it might draw a comment – or at the very least, a curious look.
September is National Hat Month, and although rare is the occasion to find a woman in public wearing a “fashionable” chapeaux (something other than a ballcap or floppy sun hat, preferably with feathers or netting), area women are nevertheless enamored with fashionable head coverings.
Sharon Winn, English professor at Northeastern State University, is somewhat fanatical when it comes to hats.
“I collect hats,” she said. “I have about 80 of them. I never wear them, but I just love hats.”
Winn recognizes the fact women – and men, for that matter – no longer wear hats, and blames modern hairstyles as the culprit for the demise of the practice.
“[Hats] were designed for the hairstyles of the time, and when hairstyles changed to the famous ‘bubble’ and ‘beehive,’ hats didn’t work anymore,” she said. “That’s when we got the little hats with a strip or two of mink or satin and a lot of netting. After that, women just gave up.”
Winn is also something of a hat historian.
“One interesting thing is that the cloches [a close-fitting hat with a bell-like shape] of the 1920s were very small,” said Winn. “Women were smaller then and had smaller heads. My head is enormous, so I can’t wear the cloches I have. But Dr. Bridgette Cowlishaw [NSU faculty member] makes her own hats and wears them to school on occasion.”
While shopping for hats, Winn has a strict code for purchase feasibility, and finds she’s not alone when searching for that unique topper.
“A hat must have pizzazz to be collectible, and my favorite modern hat maker is Sonni of San Francisco,” she said. “Their hats have serious pizzazz. There are a lot of hat collectors out there, which messes up my buying hats on Ebay, since they [collectors] run the prices up.”
Many women can remember a time when hats and gloves were wardrobe musts when attending special occasions or church.
Dianne Barker-Harrold, legal counsel for the United Keetoowah Band of Indians in Oklahoma and former district attorney, is such a person, and probably remembers first lady Jacqueline Kennedy for her famous pillbox hats, gloves and Chanel suits.
“I certainly remember the white gloves, an absolute necessity for a properly dressed ‘lady,’ young or old,” said Barker-Harrold. “I grew up in the ‘50s and ‘60s, where Easter included a new dress and hat. The old movies certainly reflected the gloves and hat thing. A proper lady would have never considered herself completely dressed without her hat.”
Although Barker-Harrold has a well-defined sense of ladylike behavior, while serving as district attorney she would have never worn a hat in Associate District Judge Mark Dobbins’ courtroom, for fear of the consequences.
Dobbins is well-known to lawbreakers in Cherokee County for having a very strict no-hat policy, which isn’t limited to the male gender.
It has always been considered appropriate for women to wear their hats indoors, but Dobbins doesn’t discriminate when it comes to the rules.
“In an appropriate setting, like a probate hearing or something similar, a fashionable hat on a woman might be appropriate,” Dobbins said. “But when I’m conducting arraignment hearings and there are more than 100 people in the courtroom, it’s just easier to ban them altogether rather than sort out what is and isn’t appropriate. It’s simple: no dew rags, no ballcaps, no hats, period.”
Dobbins doesn’t view his opinion as mean-spirited; he believes in just treatment for all, and expects respect for the institution he serves.
“I ask people to turn off their cell phones and pagers, and I consider removing hats no different,” he said.
“However, if someone feels strongly about wearing a hat in the courtroom, he [or she, evidently] can go downstairs to the county jail and see if the deputies will let him wear it in a cell.”
Barker-Harrold admits that hat-wearing, even among women, has become much more casual today.
“We wear ballcaps to cover a bad hair day, to go to the grocery store or get our hair done,” she said. “Will we ever go back to the hat and gloves era? I seriously doubt it, but wouldn’t it be nice, for just a little while, to go back to the genteel ways – gloves, hats and a little afternoon tea, perhaps?”
Jane Anderson, a Tahlequah resident who’s also a hat lover with a penchant for brimmed straw hats, doesn’t consider a ballcap a hat.
“They are not considered as a hat in my way of thinking,” said Anderson. “They are fun, but more of a sporty look for the younger set. Maybe that’s showing my age, but nevertheless, I don’t wear them [ballcaps].”
Unlike many women who either donate their hats to theater groups or give them to children or grandchildren to play dress-up, Anderson has held on to some of her favorites from the past.
“My closet is still occupied with some very nice winter felt and fur dress hats, but they seem to get some dust on them lately, and it’s too bad, because they are delightful,” she said. “As fashion seems to come back around, one can only hope the lonely, shelved hats will be once again revived!”
Linda Pope, newcomer to Tahlequah and minister at the United Methodist Children’s home, finds a certain degree of playful innocence in wearing hats.
“I love to wear hats; it expresses my childlike, silly side,” she said. “I have hats from all over the world - from a Chinese coolie hat to a Bolivian worker’s hat. I wore a yellow duck hat in Paris to keep the rain off.”
Pope’s fondness for hat-wearing began when she was a small child, and she confesses to wearing a beanie “with a propeller, no less.” While living on a farm at age 6, she wore a turquoise-colored cowgirl hat after she got her first pony.
Among the youth she is in contact with, Pope is well-known for her elaborate headdresses.
“As a youth minister, I was often seen around the holidays in a Santa hat; at youth camps, I almost always managed to wear a silly hat of some sort, but never in a worship setting,” she said. “My jester hat always breaks the ice in a group of youth. I’m always on the lookout for a fun, new hat. I don’t like to draw too much attention to myself, but I’m always up for wearing a hat upon request.”
As a hat lover, Pope received an appropriate gift from her parents after their deaths.
“It’s funny to think of it, but of the few possessions I received from my parents after their deaths was a hat from each,” she said. “My mother was a nurse, and I have her nurse’s cap. My father was a Texas Park Ranger, and I was given his work cap. My profession doesn’t claim a particular kind of hat, so I guess those who would receive my headgear after my death would receive a collection, for I am a woman who wears many hats.”
"

The skinny on Fashion Week, according to Concha

recordonline.com - The skinny on Fashion Week, according to Concha:

"# Let's insist that models walk the catwalk like humans. That weird, high-fashion gait they've been doing lately is kinda creepy.

# No more gloves and no more hats. Every couple of years, some designer puts hats and gloves on all the girls and proclaims that hats and gloves are coming back.

But trust me, they're never coming back, and the whole ruse is upsetting to the poor souls who still make hats and gloves.

# If they can ban emaciated models, perhaps Spain can also issue a gag rule against models who go on and on about how they eat absolutely all the time and they eat everything they want and, still, they can't seem to gain any weight.


(Sure, and Kate Moss was bent over a mirror full of corn dogs in that 'unauthorized' photo.)

# Spain should make the designers wear their own clothes. All the time.


I'm tired of watching people like Vera Wang send all kinds of crazy get-ups down the runway, expecting the rest of us to adopt these trends and buy these clothes. But when they come out for their little wave and bow, they're always in perfectly practical clothes. Like jeans and a black T-shirt. What's that all about?

# Speaking of black, stop with all the new blacks. We like the old black."


Who creates fashions and gas prices?

deseretnews.com | Who creates fashions and gas prices?:

" I'll admit it. I don't understand fall fashions, and I don't understand gas prices.
Fashion week just ended in New York City. The New York Times carried several photos on Monday. In each of them, attractive women were wearing hideous dresses, and they all carried facial expressions that suggested they felt as humiliated as they looked. One woman wore what looked like two spiral pancakes on her throat and a cabbage leaf on her head.
Then came a story from McClatchy Newspapers that said sport coats are "all the buzz" this season for men. If you must buy a suit, expect the legs to be slimmer, and perhaps a bit shorter, than last year. You might end up looking like you're expecting to have to walk through the aftermath of the next hurricane, which means your choice of socks will be important, too.
I understand the free market. At least, I like to think I do. But I have a hard time believing the market is making these decisions. Designers seem to be pulling hem lines and lapel widths in different directions just for the fun of it. The market just tempers the most outrageous ideas. No matter what comes down a runway in New York, you probably won't see a lot of cabbage-leaf hats this year.
Which brings me to gas prices. Every Memorial Day we see the effects of supply and demand. That's the start of vacation season, which means it's the start of long drives in minivans with children who would rather watch DVDs in the back seat than look at the Grand Canyon. The price of gas goes up because the demand for it increases. After Labor Day, when things settle down, the price goes down again — at least in theory.
But theories can be as accurate as hem-line guessing. Even within the old predictable pattern, some strange things are going on around here.
Maybe you don't remember, but this newspaper carried a headline last Dec. 14 that said, "Utah gas prices lowest in U.S." Back then, the average price in Utah was $2 per gallon, according to AAA. (Seems like decades ago, doesn't it?) No one had any real explanations for this at the time. Someone speculated that a new Costco in Bountiful was keeping prices artificially low up there (its price was $1.74). But that didn't explain why Provo's average price was $1.93 while the rest of the nation was $2.18. Utah was just, well, a cheap place to buy gas.
But this week the headline was, 'Gas prices 5th highest in U.S.' Today the average price of gas in Utah is $2.94 a gallon. Only in Nevada, California, Hawaii and Idaho can you find it more expensive. The national average is $2.61.
In other words, prices here did go up and down with the rest of the world market, but they went up a lot more than they went down.
So, what gives?
You can't really blame OPEC. The price of crude has fallen to its lowest level since last March. Besides, a detailed analysis of gasoline prices in this newspaper last May noted that Utahns don't get any of their gas from the Middle East. Nor does it come from any of the refineries that were damaged by last year's hurricanes. Three-fourths of what we use comes from Utah and surrounding states. Another quarter comes from Canada, specifically the tar sands of Alberta.
We're constantly told that the industry sets prices based on what it expects it will need to buy gas in the future. But with the price of oil declining, it would seem the future looks pretty cheap. Is demand here really much higher than it is elsewhere?
Amid all this head-scratching, I read a column in the Washington Post by Lester R. Brown of the Earth Policy Institute. He raises the interesting idea that the high price of gas might tempt farmers to grow wheat, corn, soybeans and sugarcane to be converted into auto fuel rather than for use as food. The market, in other words, might force the world to starve itself so it can keep driving.
Interesting theory, but that may be giving the oil market a lot more credit than it deserves.
I can't help thinking someone, somewhere is just making all this stuff up for the fun of it. I'd like to hang a cabbage leaf on his head."


Mad Hatter Luncheon

Sunday Calendar | Life | PensacolaNewsJournal.com:

"Mad Hatter Luncheon

11 a.m. to 1 p.m. Wednesday. Hats will be judged in three categories: Most Elegant, Tackiest and Best Theme. Sponsored by the Woman's Club of Pensacola. $10 buffet lunch. Woman's Club of Pensacola, 1020 E. Gregory St. 944-5169."


Fez-wearing gorilla ads withdrawn after complaints

Fez-wearing gorilla ads withdrawn after complaints - National - smh.com.au:

"PTA spokesman David Hynes said a number of posters and thousands of pamphlets had been destroyed after three people complained last week that the gorilla cartoon was 'insensitive and offensive on cultural and racial grounds' because of the animal's headwear.

The fez, which originated in the Moroccan city of Fez, is considered Islamic attire, though its roots are non-denominational.

'We made the decision rather than offend anyone just to withdraw the element of the campaign a couple of weeks early,' Mr Hynes told AAP.

'There was clearly no offence intended on any racial, ethnic or religious grounds.'

Mr Hynes said the gorilla was wearing a fez because it was meant to seem like an escaped circus animal.

'Clearly the whole campaign was way over-the-top surrealistic fantasy stuff,' Mr Hynes said.

'There is an established concept there that a monkey or a gorilla wearing a fez is a circus animal.'

Mr Hynes said he did not think the posters were offensive.

'But beauty is in the eye of the beholder and so, in many instances, is offence,' he said.

"

Hats on! Women raise money for church project

ARTICLE: Hats on! Women raise money for church project (The Virginian-Pilot - HamptonRoads.com/PilotOnline.com):

" NORFOLK - Rosa Cartwright ruled swiftly and firmly Saturday on the boundaries of good fashion, no matter how highly the women in her church thought of their headwear.

"That's going to be an ugly - yes, ma'am," Cartwright told Anne Hobbs and her straw hat.

The women of New Hope United Church of Christ brought some of their best and worst hats Saturday to their church in the Berkley neighborhood for a hat show and fundraiser. Nearly 30 entries competed in four categories: prettiest, funniest, most original and ugliest.

Before the show, women carried their hats into the back of the church wrapped in plastic bags. They went inside a small office to sign in and present their secret entries for final inspection. Cartwright, the event coordinator, overruled some contestants while deciding which hat belonged in which category.

'They can say it's the prettiest hat, but when they bring it to me, uh-uh,' Cartwright said, breaking into laughter. 'No, this got to go in the ugliest.'

The women paid $3 per hat to enter. The event helped raise money to build a multi purpose room at the church.

Bronda Burney, one of four judges, said church hats are popular among older black women, some of whom spend $250 or more on extravagant pieces.

It seems that women in the younger generations just don't wear hats anymore, she said.

The trend didn't apply to Kieara Lundy. The 7 -year-old entered a Disney-themed hat with ears and a flowing scarf into the prettiest category. She called it her Minnie hat."


Tuesday, September 12, 2006

Women's hats & caps: Competition drives quality focus

Competition may drive quality, but price drives the consumer.

Women's hats & caps: Competition drives quality focus:

"Makers of women's fall and winter hats in mainland China and Taiwan are emphasizing quality to increase competitiveness. As part of this, they are sourcing materials from reliable suppliers and implementing rigorous testing procedures.

To ensure the quality of materials used, companies choose their suppliers carefully. Some only source from those that are ISO-certified. Others buy from suppliers that can provide documents certifying that the fabric is nontoxic. Most companies also maintain long-term partnerships with material and accessory suppliers.

In addition, there are mainland companies that import raw materials from suppliers in Hong Kong, Taiwan, South Korea, Australia, Madagascar and the Philippines.

Once delivered, outsourced fabric and thread are checked to make sure that color is consistent. Accessories such as plastic buttons and metal accents are inspected as well.

Fabric is checked again after cutting. It should follow specified measurements accurately and the edges must be clean.

Before packing, finished products are examined thoroughly. The tightness, precision and durability of the stitches are inspected. The hats should also be able to maintain their shape even after shipping.

Aside from these procedures, the cleanliness of models is visually inspected. The attached accessories, printed and embroidered designs are scrutinized as well.

Quality is monitored by in-house teams that are usually made up of 10 members. Some companies employ highly skilled workers with 15 years of experience in the industry. This is to guarantee the reliability of the QC processes.

Another way suppliers improve quality is by investing in advanced production machinery from abroad. Shanghai Favourite Headwear Mfg Co. Ltd of the mainland uses Japan-made embroidery machines to produce sharp and precise designs.

Qingdao Dayou Best Arts & Crafts Co. Ltd, another mainland supplier, utilizes sewing and embroidery machines from South Korea.

Suppliers in Taiwan, meanwhile, emphasize handwork quality.

Lee Brothers Hat Corp. hires competent craftsmen to lower reject rates. Its factory in Taichung is manned by 50 skilled workers who concentrate on fall and winter hat models for women.
"

Supplier profiles

Thought you may be interested to know where the majority of hats and caps come from.

Women's hats & caps: Supplier profiles:

"Industry overview

Suppliers of women's fall and winter hats in mainland China also manufacture other types of headwear. Approximately, 42 percent of suppliers are foreign-invested, while 31 percent are state-owned. The rest are locally owned private enterprises.

The largest production hub is Guangdong province, which accounts for 23 percent of the mainland's exports of caps and hats. Following Guangdong is Jiangsu province, the output of which makes up 21 percent of the country's shipments. Shanghai ranks third, accounting for 17 percent of exports.

Mainland suppliers still rely heavily on manual labor for the manufacture of hats and caps. Products are mainly for the low end and midrange.

Like their mainland counterparts, Taiwan suppliers of women's fall and winter hats also produce various headwear. Most companies have factories both in the island and the mainland.

Suppliers are focusing on the production of midrange and high-end models to avoid competing head-on with mainland companies. Makers emphasize product quality and manufacturing efficiency.

Materials are sourced from reliable suppliers in the island as the quality is comparable to those from abroad.

The main export markets of Taiwan suppliers are the US, Japan and Europe. Suppliers are projecting exports to increase by 5 to 10 percent in coming months.
"

Friday, September 08, 2006

Feathers or flowers? It's the question of the season

Feathers or flowers? It's the question of the season - Entertainment:

"FEATHERS are flying in the millinery world, as the city's top hatters race to feed our growing appetite for racing headwear.

As the spring racing carnival approaches, a Melbourne woman's fancy turns to hats. The Victoria Racing Club estimates 47,960 of them were sold last year.

Hats have become as synonymous with the Melbourne Cup carnival as the horses themselves. This year, the VRC has tipped its hat to this, introducing a millinery award in the Fashions on the Field competition.

Amid the sea of feathers and frippery in the West Melbourne premises of Australia's largest hat maker, Kasmo Design, the last boxes of hats were being sent off to department stores and boutiques this week.

With business booming for their popular racing labels — the mid-priced Morgan and Taylor and the upmarket Fiona Powell — owners John and Molly Kasriel have been frustrated by delays that have held up delivery of imported feathers and straw.

'Since the bird flu scare, it has been harder and harder, as straw and feathers have to be fumigated by quarantine, which holds up shipments,' Mr Kasriel said.

When the Kasriels survey the colourful array of hats at Flemington each year, they recognise many as their own creations. Ms Kasriel predicts head-room will be even more limited this year as hats get bigger, with unstructured floppy hats dominating. Feathers will rule over flowers.

But she is not prepared to pronounce the fascinator dead. It has simply evolved from a fluffy hair clip worn as entry-level headwear by racing debutantes to a towering sculptural creation.

'Everybody wants something bigger this year to stand out and they are spending an average of $300 for a hat, or up to $150 for a fascinator,' Ms Kasriel says.

Couture milliner Phillip Rhodes says the Melbourne Cup carnival in early November is the one fashion event where plumage rules over cleavage. He expects the young women who have been drawn to the races in recent years to graduate from dance floor glitz to stylish, elegant hats.

'The aim with hats, I always say, is to protect and project — protect yourself from ridicule and project your personality,' Mr Rhodes says. His forecast is for a reversal of recent trends, with small but exquisitely crafted hats gaining prominence.

'People have moved on from that big fluffy feathered look that held the floor for a couple of years,' he said.

'They are probably looking for something a bit calmer in black and white or natural.'

Mr Rhodes believes Melbourne is the last bastion of the hat-wearing world.

But he does admit to shuddering at some millinery faux pas. One is dangly chandelier earrings jutting below brims and another the 'look-at-me' showiness of revealing dresses.

Nor are hats confined to women's heads. John Kasriel's company has launched a range of trilbies for men headed to the races. Blokes have worked out they get more attention from women if they are wearing a hat, he says.

Men's hats sell for up to $100, while women shell out up to $1200 for a fashion accessory worn only once a year.

After the races, some of the hats end up in upmarket secondhand shops, such as Secondo in South Yarra. Canny fashionistas can snap up designer hats in pristine condition for between $100 and $350, proprietor Lesley Skinner says.

But others come to a far less glamorous end. 'Some people leave them on the back windowsill of the car and wonder why their colour changes, while others get crushed on the backseat by drunken racegoers at the end of the day,' Mr Rhodes says."

Sunday, September 03, 2006

The meaning of proper dress

The meaning of proper dress:

"The colors draw the eye. Salima Ahmed Tirr, a young Somali woman who has been in the country for two years, tries on head scarves with friends at the Mogadishu Store on Lisbon Street in Lewiston.

'I have about 150 of the scarves,' Tirr said. 'I like bright colors and am always looking for something new.' Other women also try on coverings as the afternoon sunlight streams into the store, casting a glow on the colorful garments.

Said Mohamud, owner of the store that sells African and Middle Eastern goods, said a woman's appearance is very important in Somali and African culture. It is a sign of propriety. 'A woman that looks attractive is respected because it shows that she can be trusted and that she is clean.'

He further explained that the religious side of the woman's dress covering the entire body is a show of respect for God. The practical side is that Africa is very hot, dusty and windy, so the clothing serves as a protection from the elements. On the cultural side of the attire, the woman must be completely covered in public.

In African culture, color is important, and a woman's clothing is considered part of her beauty, but things are changing for schoolage girls, Mohamud said. Muslim girls who attend American schools are slowly leaving traditions behind, he said. They want to dress like their U.S. friends, eat American food and wear Nike shoes.

Changes can vary from family to family; some remain conservative while others are changing their ways. Those who choose to be progressive are not pressured to conform, said Mohamud. As time goes by, more young women are deciding whether to hold on to their traditions or adopt a new culture.

One thing remains: the culture of women shopping to enhance their natural beauty. This translates into any language."


Certainty for mad race day

Certainty for mad race day | The Daily Telegraph:

"To help get you fellas and fillies into the starting gate, Confidential and Rosehill Gardens are giving readers a chance to win the ultimate racing experience at Mad About the Hat Day on September 16.

We are giving one lucky reader and 19 friends the chance to win a private party in the Grand Ballroom Marquee worth more than $3000 – we are talking your own roped-off area, catered food and non-stop beer and bubbly, a personal tarot card reader and a make-up professional at your disposal.

And because the winner will need to wow the other mad hatters with the maddest of all hats, you'll be giving Kate Waterhouse a run for her money in a headpiece by Rosehill Gardens official milliner Kerrie-Ann Haute Couture to the value of $400.

All ladies with a hat or fascinator get free entry and the first 5000 through the gate take home a Nivea gift bag full of goodies.
"

Saturday, September 02, 2006

Police warn 64,000 Tehran women for slack dressing

Middle East Times:

"'Over the past month 63,963 Tehrani women have received warnings ... and some have made a written pledge [to dress properly],' Mohammad Reza Alipour from the capital's police force said.

Every post-pubescent woman in the Islamic republic is required to cover her hair and body in public, and crackdowns on un-Islamic dressers are common in summer when many women opt for cooler short, bright coats and Capri pants.

Religious and traditional women wear the chador - literally meaning 'tent' - which is an enveloping black head-to-toe cover.

A large number of women in Tehran and other big cities have been pushing the boundaries in recent years by sporting skimpy headscarves that barely cover their hair and sandals showing off painted toenails."


Siletz basketmaker keeps the art alive

See the caps photo in the article. They're amazing.

ICT [2006/08/30] Siletz basketmaker keeps the art alive:

"Lane only began making baskets about 15 years ago. ''The first basket I made was a baby basket I made for a nephew of mine who was about to be born,'' he related. ''My wife [Cheryl] and I got involved in the Feather Dances, a Siletz traditional dance, and we had a need to do caps for women for the dances so I started to work on caps. It took a while to weave that level of basketry but after a little time I began to weave caps and have been doing it ever since. The need is what prompted the work.''

The weave of these ceremonial hats is tight, the lines are straight, and they compare favorably to hats done long ago. He learned from a woman named Gladys Muschamp, a family famous for their baskets. He spoke of his admiration for her and how she and a few others kept the basketry tradition alive, calling her ''one of my greatest heroes.''
"

Loons, welcome to my collection

An excellent article about cap collecting.

Midland Daily News - Loons, welcome to my collection:

"Move over, Bob Dylan. And tell the Red Wings, the ‘84 Tigers, and Brown University hockey the news.

There’s a new baseball cap on the shelf at my house. It’s green, deep green.

And on the front of the cap, there’s a Loon.

I’m a baseball cap guy from way back. My collection is modest by some standards – 60 or so. My wife thinks 10 or so is a better number.

Over a dozen Red Wings caps. Tigers caps with various colors and themes. Three purchased at separate Dylan concerts.

Maybe my most prized cap is the one I received directly from a New York City firefighter whose unit lost several members on 9/11. I only wear it one day out of the year.

When it was announced that minor league baseball was coming to Midland, my first thought was not of season tickets or what the team would be named.

It was only this: What are the caps going to look like, and when can I get one?

When we were kids playing Little League ball, we didn’t need a uniform, as long as we had a cap.

When we first went to see the Tigers, a plastic batting helmet was always first on the souvenir list.

Every town I visit, every ballgame, hockey arena, or concert I attend, it’s the same thing: Where are the caps, and what do they look like?
"

Bird motifs are big for spring/summer

iafrica.com | highlife | her life | fashion & beauty | haute couture Bird motifs are big for spring/summer:

"In the first show, India’s most celebrated designer Manish Arora sent out models in gathered skirts and balloon dresses with animal and bird motifs on clothes and stuffed birds on headgear, drawing audience laughter and gasps.

'The collection is inspired by paradise forest which has animals, birds and fish, flowers, rivers, oceans, trees and sky,' said Arora, who takes his collection to London Fashion Week next month.

'I think I am growing up. I don’t keep anything in mind while designing. I do what I want to do,' he added.

Models in Arora's creations sashayed down the ramp in voluminous tops and dresses offset by skinny pants in rainbow hues while large images of cats, dogs and horses floated in a laser effect in the hall.

The collection marked a departure from the trademark pop art and kitsch designs that have earned Arora international acclaim.

More than 70 international buyers, representing world-famed department stores such as Galeries Lafayette and Maria Luisa of France, would scout for spring trends at the five-day annual fashion extravaganza, the organisers said.

Among the front-row fashionistas who eagerly lapped up the designs was British style icon Isabella Blow whose elaborate bird hat and flouncy dress by British designer Alexander McQueen vied with the catwalk clothes for attention.

'India has the most beautiful birds. That’s why I have brought six bird hats here,' said the famous hat-wearer, fashion consultant and writer who is credited with discovering British designers such as McQueen and Hussein Chalayan.

'Its fascinating to be here. I had thought it would be very crowded. India is a huge country with a huge potential,' Blow said.
"

Feather in her cap: Local milliner brimming with success

BostonHerald.com - Style & Fashion: Feather in her cap: Local milliner brimming with success:

"“We were raking in the cash,” she said.
A Framingham State University graduate, Lynn learned to sew and knit from her grandmother. Her first and only job working for someone else - making coats for a mass-market discount manufacturer - lasted less than a year.
“I called the fabric ‘cardboard.’ The stuff was really ugly and I couldn’t spend more than two cents on a button,” she said, still disgusted at the experience.
Now she works in velour felts and with custom-designed yarn. She said her asymmetrical sculpting is the key to her success.
“It somehow balances out the face and is flattering if you have a big nose or a pronounced chin,” she said.
The 14-year-old company, a family affair with her husband, Vincent Giandurco, who handles the business side of things, has expanded its knitwear pieces to include sweater coats and, in the near future, dresses.
“I’m a woman and I have children. I’m not going to be making little cotton dresses,” she said matter-of-factly.
She feels hopeful that hats are “about to trend,” noting that Hilary Duff recently was spotted wearing one of her designs. The last time hats made it big was in 2000, she said, and Mary J. Blige bought eight.
“I’m feeling it though,” said Lynn, who can’t understand why women don’t feel the same passion for hats as they do for shoes.
“Your hat is right next to your face,” she said. “It’s an instant new haircut, and it doesn’t grow out.”
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